Bruce Stainsby's Blog: Muttering from the mo

Democracy is failing us.

December 10th, 2012

“People are good, it’s the politicians who are the problem.”

We have heard this thought thoughout our travels, expressed by young and old alike.

The majority of people we have met have been honest and open, willing to listen and understand your point of view.

They all see political posturing as a hindrance to understanding and accepting our collective differences.

We heard this in Egypt, Jordan, Turkey, Bulgaria and Romania.

We also heard the same thought expressed in Spain, Italy, France and the UK.

These are all countries that have gone through, or are going through, difficult times, of varying degrees.

Politicians polarise opinions and bipartisanism seems to be a strategy of the past.

As the Governator* put it,”…a worldview that put parties ahead of people…”

Political parties have become so partisan that they try to win favour with the voters by doggedly adhering to an extremist point of view.

Political leaders aren’t winning the popular vote by developing an enlightened vision for the future, but rather stagnating the system by offering the voters no real choice.

Immediately they get into power, even if it’s by the smallest margin, their primary goal is to remain there, while the opposition’s approach is to be obstructionist.

Australia, like the rest of the world, is stuck in this malaise. Our problem is that we are in dire need of ‘Big Vision Politics’.

While most of Europe struggles under the flip-flop of political ideals, they are fortunate in that the big thinking in infrastructure has been done and executed.

There is a network of Autobahns, Autostradas, Autoroutes, Autopistas and Motorways throughout Europe. Most largish cities have a highly developed underground or tramway sytem in place. They keep cars out of the city centers and encourage the tourists and locals alike to use public transport and then provide a sytem that will cope with it.

Many cities have a single charge for any trip taken within the hour.

Nuremberg and Bordeaux have an excellent tram and trolly bus sytem, Valencia has a Metro as does Lyon.

These are cities with populations ranging from 400,000 to 1.2 million.

Barcelona has a comprehensive underground, overground, tram and bus sytem. All to service a population of 5 million.

In 2020 Melbourne’s population is expected to reach that number.

It’s time for the politicians to stop talking about more public transport and start to put a plan, any plan, into action.

As the Victorian oposition spokesperson has said, you can’t catch a feasibility study to work.

Therein lies the problem, they had years to do something about it when they were in government and again all they did was talk.

There has to be a better system, the current one is broken.

*(Page 555) Total Recal by Arnold Schwarzenegger

Architecture and Oranges. (November 2012)

November 29th, 2012

Valencia was a total surprise.

From the moment we arrived at the beautiful Art Nouveau, Estación de Norte, the Valencian architecture continued to delight.

This was our first trip without the Renault, so we were relying on the Spanish railway network.

Our commuter Renfe (Red Nacional de Ferrocarriles Españoles or Spanish National Railway Network) took us from Montgat straight to Sants Estació, where we picked up a long distance Renfe to Valencia.

Our hotel was walking distance from the station, so it was a rather effortless four hour journey.

We had arrived early enough in the afternoon to take the last city tour on the Hop-On-Hop-Off, tourist bus, This was around the historical centre of Valencia and gave us a good idea of where the sites were.

Our bus tickets were valid for 24 hours, so the next morning we took the second half of the city tour. This was around the new area of the city and down to the port.

It was cold and wet but the driver insisted that the best views were from the top of the bus, so he put up the vinyl roof and dried off the seats. There we were, the only tourists on the bus, with the best seats. In fact we had been the only takers the previous evening, so had the best seats then as well.

Having got a good perspective on the city, we decided to walk around the old centre in the afternoon.

This took us to the Central Market, where we bought some juicy Valencia oranges for lunch. We then visited the Silk Exchange, Generalitat Palace, Our Lady’s Basilica in the Virgin Square, the Santa Catalina Church Tower, the Bullring and finally back to the Estación del Norte, to take some more snaps.

Oranges are a feature of the station’s decorative mosaics, both inside and out.

The highlight of the old city was the Lonja de la Seda or Silk Exchange, built between 1482 and 1548. It’s a world renowned example of a secular building in the Late Gothic style and a UNESCO World Heritage site.

This is the 16th Century version of today’s stock exchange, with a large decorative trading hall, where the riches of the East and the New Wold were traded.

There were other beautiful buildings close to our hotel, like the town hall, post office and the Bank of Valencia.

Even our hotel had an ornate Art Nouveau entrance.

That was the old, now for the new.

Our second bus tour took us along the Antiguo del Rio Turia. This is the bed of the river Turia that was diverted after a catastrophic flood in 1957.

This area has now become a sunken recreational parkland and home to the City of Arts and Sciences.

Designed by Santiago Calatrava and Félix Candela, the City of Arts and Sciences it is a group of breathtakingly contemporary buildings and bridges that has become the cities most popular, ‘modern’, tourist attraction.

This complex has done for Valencia what Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim Museum did for Bilbao.

Integrated inside this complex is L’Oceanogràfic, the largest marine park in Europe with 45,000 animals and 500 different species of mammals, fish, birds, reptiles and invertebrates.

Not surprisingly it’s centered round the Mediterranean, Atlantic and the Americas.

It was getting late in the day so we wandered back to the hotel along the riverbed. The light was low and I could’t resist taking a few more snaps of the stunning architecture.

 

A quiet day in Barcelona. (November 2012)

November 26th, 2012

Thea was having her hair cut, and that can take a long time, so I spent four hours wandering around the Gothic Quarter and La Rambla.

What struck me was how quiet everything was.

The streets were free of pedestrians, the shops of customers and the restaurants of diners.

There were still plenty of tourists about but nowhere near as many as we had seen a month earlier.

Even the prized seat, at the front of the double-decker city tour bus, was empty.

The only disturbances to my peaceful stroll, were the graffiti cleaners and the jackhammers of the workers repairing the pavement around the cathedral.

“If I have seen further it is by standing on the shoulders of giants.”* (October/November 2012)

November 22nd, 2012

Our last road trip was a combination of catching up with friends and trying to get into the minds of some of my creative heroes.

Wherever you travel in Europe someone famous was born there, raised there or lived there.

Trying to get closer to what inspired their work became my focus. Some encounters were planned and others just happened.

We travelled out of Barcelona to Lyon, another of those beautifully preserved French provincial cities.

In the Place des Terreaux is the Bartholdi Fountain.

It was originally created in 1857 for Bordeaux by the then 23 year old, Frédéric-Auguste Bartholdi, the designer of the Statue of Liberty.

Due to budget constraints it was never built there, and that was Lyon’s gain.

Four rampaging horses, the great rivers of France, complete with steaming nostrils, strain against their reins, under the control of an almost placid Paris, depicted as a female figure.

Paul Bocuse, the legendary French chef, is featured along with other heroes of Lyon on the painted facade of a riverside apartment building.

The Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourviere, built between 1872 and 1884, sits high on the hill overlooking the city. It was undergoing serious internal renovations but beneath the scaffolding were a series of delicate, beautifully crafted, mosaics.

We overnighted at Chateau d’Etoges, in the Champagne region. This grande 17th century residence was once owned by the valet of King Louis XVI. He lost his head during the revolution, as a result of being a little too cosy with the monarchy.

Autumn was well advanced in the Champagne region around Epernay. The vineyards were a patchwork of browns, yellows, reds and greens.

We then headed north into Germany and weather turned even colder.

We picked up Hayden in Mannheim and then drove towards Heidelberg to catch up with our German friends in Bammental.

After an unexpectedly early snowfall the weather brightened up again and the sunflowers were soaking up the last of the Autumn warmth.

From there we travelled further north to Nieder Weisel, the hometown of a brave group of Germans who escaped from the troubles in Europe and took the long voyage to Australia in the 1850s’

Thea’s great, great grandmother was one of them and there’s a plaque near the church that commemorates their feat.

Next was Paderborn, a university town in Germany, where Hayden is spending 4 months as part of his PhD.

We visited, Schloß Neuhaus, just outside the town and situated on the Pader River, the shortest river in Germany. We also scoured Paderborn cathedral in search of the famous ‘Three Hare Window’, but it remained elusive.

We left Hayden to his studies in Paderborn and drove to Nuremberg, home to Albrecht Dürer (1471-1528) Germany’s most famous graphic artist, painter and art theoretician.

There is no original work on display but it’s interesting to visit the house where much of his great art legacy was created.

Nuremberg was also home to the Nazi Party Rally Grounds, covering 11 square kilometers. There is also the Documentation Centre with a permanent exhibition ‘Fascination and Terror’ which provides graphic information about the causes, context and consequences of the National Socialist regime.

Adolf is definitely no hero of mine.

Just on the outskirts of Nuremberg, in Stein, is the factory and family residence of the famous stationery company, Faber-Castell.

I grew up very envious of those kids lucky enough to have a box of their pencils.

Next was Ulm, with the world’s tallest church steeple, and the birthplace of Albert Einstein.

Albert only lived for a short period in Ulm and according to him, it had no impact on his life.

The original house was destroyed in 1945.

The snow was still on the ground in Saint Gallen, Switzerland, and the skies were grey.

The cathedral has recently been restored and has elegant Renaissance frescos on the ceiling and 16 elaborate confessionals.

By my reckoning that gives the church the ability to forgive 32 sinners in a single sitting.

Next was Arnex-sur-Orbe, Switzerland, an idyllic village, where one of my oldest friends has lived, with his family, for nearly 30 years.

From there we visited the ‘Collection de l’Art Brut in Lausanne’ This is a gallery, created in 1976 by the French artist Jean Dubuffet.

He describes what Art Brut is below.

“Art Brut works are produced by self-taught creators firmly entrenched outside the mainstream, harboring a rebellious spirit and impervious to collective norms and values.

These include psychiatric hospital patients, prisoners, eccentrics. loners and outcasts…”

This exhibition was an eye opener with some of the most original and creative, of off-the-wall art, I have seen in years.

Aix-en-Provence and the world of Paul Cezanne was the next stage of our cultural adventure.

There are numerous tours you can do to try and get a insight into the mind of the father of modern painting, or as Picasso described, “the father of us all”

We decided to do just three.

The walk around Aix, with emphasis on where Cezanne lived and studied, Cezanne’s studio on the Lauves Hill and The Painters’ Ground, with spectacular views of Sainte-Victoire Mountain.

We also spent a day just circling around the Aix region, where Sainte-Victoire Mountain is ever present.

Even if you aren’t a student of art, the rugged escarpments of white rock, contrasting with the red earth, is spectacular.

It’s no wonder that Cezanne immortalized the region with his art.

The next leg took us from the sublime to the sometimes absurd, with a three day tour around the Dalí Triangle.

Salvador Dalí’s life embodied the ideals of Surrealism and you can gain a small understanding of this very strange man by visiting three of his most significant buildings.

The Dalí House at Port Lligat was the home that Dalí and his wife, Gala, built over a forty year period. It is a maze of odd shaped rooms on many levels, the result of Dalí buying up the surrounding fisherman’s cottaged and ingeniously combining them together.

You are greeted at the entrance by a giant stuffed polar bear – that sets the tone for the entire house.

Stuffed animals and bizarre objects are a vital ingredient in much of Dalí’s architectural decoration, however he was sane enough to include a BBQ in the back garden, near the pool.

Next was the Theatre Museu Dalí, at Figures, the largest Surrealist object in the world.

The exhibition is housed in what was the former Municipal Theatre, however it was extensively ‘renovated’ to suit the Dalí aesthetic.

Apart from a wide variety of sculptures, paintings and drawings by Dalí, there are also works by other artists.

Like most great artists Dalí studied the Masters and there’s even a reference to Albrecht Dürer’s Rhinoceros in one of Dalí’s etchings.

There is no doubt that this museum was built by Dalí as a homage to himself, as his tomb is in the crypt.

Dalí always fancied himself as the modern Renaissance Man, not confined to one medium or form of self expression. He used film, sculpture, painting, architecture and technology to convey his message.

However it’s his jewelry, in the Dalí-Joies collection, that best demonstrated how his talents could be expressed in alternative ways.

He used many of his reoccurring themes and turned them into beautifully crafted bracelets, broaches and necklaces.

The final part of the triangle was the Casa-Museu Castell Gala Dalí.

This is the 11th century Castle Púbol that Dalí purchased and then renovated as a gift to his wife, Gala. She accepted it on one condition, that Dalí could’t set foot inside the the castle unless he was given a written invitation.

The interior is less extravagant than the other two buildings we visited but still contains many examples of Dalí’s weird sense of humor.

There was no BBQ in the garden but there are some of Dalí’s strange elephant sculptures.

We spent a few hours in Girona on our way back to Barcelona.

Although it has a rich history and has been under siege 25 times, I could’t find any of my heroes in Girona.

*Isaac Newton

Marketing by cross purposes.

November 9th, 2012

This poster, seen in Saint Gallen, Switzerland, was the centre piece of a window display for the watch maker Maurice Lacroix.

The copy, a quote from Sir Bob Geldof, reads:

“I don’t want to live like you. I don’t want to talk like you. I’m going to be like me.”

Now I guess that Sir Bob, due to contractual obligations, wears a Maurice Lacroix watch. And I am equally sure that the manufacturers of Maurice Lacroix would like you to wear one as well.

Why else would they spend all that money to use his name?

Therefore isn’t the whole idea of wearing the same watch as Bob at cross purposes with his message?

Paradores de Tourism de España. (October 2012)

October 30th, 2012

After experiencing the wonders of Gaudi’s Barcelona we decided to see the city from a different perspective and climbed both Montjuïc and Mount Tibidabo. They are on opposite sides of the valley and the views give you an excellent understanding of the city’s layout.

We then drove along the coast to Tarragona, past the Roman aqueduct and on to Tortosa to start our Paradore experience.

The first Spanish Paradore was opened by King Alfonso XIII in Gredos, Ávilia, in 1928.

There are now over 90 of these luxury hotels spread over Spain and the Canary Islands.

There are even some in North Africa.

Many of the hotels are in former palaces, fortresses, castles, convents and monasteries.

Being built in either public or religious buildings, a large number of Paradores occupy the high ground.

Our first night was in Paradore Tortosa.

This hotel is in a converted 10th century castle, it dominates the skyline and sits proudly over both the town and the river below.

The Gothic Cathedral of Santa Maria of Tortosa has a flat roof, this is very evident when you view it from the the Paradore above. Inside you wouldn’t know, as it has all the arches and vaults of a traditional Gothic Cathedral.

Apparently many churches were built with this flat roof style.

From Tortosa we drove via Valderrobres to Paradore Alcaniz, formerly a 12th Century Castle housing the convent of the order of Calatrava in Teruel.

We took the tour of the castle, not knowing it was only in Spanish, then tried as best we could, to understand what was going on.

It was a good lesson in what it’s like for tourists who don’t have a narration in their native tongue, or English as a second language.

We did learn, mainly from the leaflet that was in English, that these Gothic wall paintings are unique, in that they show civil scenes as well as conquests and religious themes.

The next day we went via Lleida to Cardona.

The Cathedral at Lleida also has a flat roof but again you wouldn’t know if from the high, lofty interior.

The Paradore ‘Ducs de Cardona’ is built in a ninth century castle with a tower dating from the second century.

It was the most spectacular of the three we visited.

There is a long, steep, winding driveway that takes you to the top of the hill and the Paradore. From there you have an commanding view of the town and the salt mines that have made the area famous.

It is estimated that the mountain of salt, that is opposite the hotel, is 2km deep.

We drove down into Cardona in the evening and were lucky enough to capture the sun setting on the Paradore high up on the hill.

On the way back to Barcelona we climbed the 9km of winding road to visit Monserrat.

The weather had turned stormy and the clouds hung low over the mountain, creating an erie backdrop to the monastery.

The beauty is in the detail. (October 2012)

October 24th, 2012

Barcelona owes a large debt to Antoni Gaudi.

It’s October and the crowds are still flocking to see what this genius of Art Nouveau architecture has done to churches, parks and private property.

I first visited Barcelona in 1972, Franco was in power and the Sagrada Família was a fraction of the size it is today. It has been under construction since 1882 and not due to be completed until 2026, the centennial of Gaudi’s death.

I visited again in 2005 and the workers were still there.

They are still there today however the interior is almost compete and it has now been consecrated.

What struck me most this time was the detail of the interior. The organic nature of Gaudi’s initial Nouveau designs have been echoed in every aspect.

The exterior view is still marred by cranes and scaffolding but it’s the interior that gives you an insight into Gaudi’s vision.

On the same day we also visited Casa Milà or La Padrera, an innovative example of domestic architecture, designed by Gaudi and built in 1912.

He even included an underground car park.

Again I was taken by the detail of the interior. There seems to be no angular surfaces and everything has a fluidity.

Inside La Padrera is a museum that illustrates how Gaudi, influenced by nature, approached his designs in an organic rather angular way.

 

Contrasts. (September 2012)

October 12th, 2012

We left grey, damp England and arrived in dark, stormy France.

Our first stop was the WWI cemetery at Armentières, where we visited the grave of Patrick O’Farrell, Thea’s third cousin, who died on February 24th, 1917.

Then to the Somme and the other historic battlefields of the Great War.

The weather suited the location of this somber place.

Names such as Villers-Bretonneux, Pozières and Le Hamel conjure up images that have been etched in our consciousness.

The Australian Memorial Park at Le Hamel, opened in 2008, commemorates General Monash’s brilliant victory on July 4th, 1918.

The site has panoramic displays that explain Monash’s strategy and the significance of particular areas of the battlefield.

There is even a panel dedicated to Manfred Von Richthofen, the Red Baron. He was shot down over this area on April 21st, 1918.

Who actually shot him down is a subject of some conjecture.

From the darkness of the Somme we journeyed to Chaufour Les Bonnières, which is only a few kilometers from Giverny, the home and garden of Claude Monet.

In total contrast, the day was bright and sunny. It even managed to warm up in the afternoon.

Monet, the founder of the French Impressionist movement, was an avid gardener and transformed the old farmyard into an Impressionist wonderland.

It’s Autumn, yet the variety and colour of the blooms were as fresh and vibrant as if it was a balmy day in early Spring.

It’s no wonder that he painted some of his most memorable pieces, en plein air, in this idyllic location.

As well as gardening, Monet’s other passion was for things Japanese, especially their woodcuts.

The house is full of these delicate impressions of Japanese 19th Century life. You can certainly understand how Monet’s love of Japan influenced his art and featured in many of the paintings from Giverny.

Even the famous bridge over the lily pond is a replica, taken from a Japanese photograph, that can be seen in the house.

The village of Giverny has been home to many artists but it’s Monet who draws the crowds.

Apart from his art it could be his influence on the weather that has something to do with it, as the next day it was back to dark and stormy skies for our return to Barcelona.

A green and pleasant land. (September 2012)

October 9th, 2012

We have just been in England.

After 8 months of struggling with foreign languages, it was a change to be able to read a menu, understand it, then order food from it, and be understood.

The rain was ever present and the cloudy skies our constant companion.

England is green for a reason.

Our first stop was Land’s End in Cornwall.

This is a rugged, windswept coastline with the sea on three sides. Our hotel is about as far west as you can get on the English mainland and the wind tried hard all night to get into our room.

From Land’s End we headed to Dorset with a side trip to St. Michael’s Mount. This bears a striking resemblance to Mont St. Michel in France, which we visited only a few days before.

There is also an historical connection.

The church, built on the summit of the mount after the Norman invasion, around 1066, was granted to the Benedictine Abbey of Mont St. Michel.

Mount St Michael is still home to the St. Auburn family, who have been in the castle, on and off, since 1647. In 1954 the island was given to the National Trust, with the family retaining a 999-year lease to live in the castle.

Next we spent few days with friends in Burton Bradstock, Dorset, a beautiful little village on the Jurassic Coast.

The Jurassic Coast has 153 km of World Heritage coastline, that can document 180 million years of geological history.

It was made famous by the paleontologist Mary Anning, whose discoveries changed the thinking about prehistoric life.

We visited the fishing towns of Lyme Regis and West Bay, where we enjoyed an excellent lunch of local seafood, in the rain.

Then, in an attempt to stay dry, we visited Althehampton in Dorchester, a quintessential English Manor House, with beautifully preserved rooms and formal gardens.

Apart from the many water features in the gardens, there is a finely detailed marble statue of a rather stern Queen Victoria.

From the coast we drove inland to visit the Cerne Abbas Giant. Aptly named a giant as he is large in every respect.

There is a lot of conjecture about his actual age, as some say he is from the Bronze age, while common belief is that he is a lot younger.

Then to the Avebury Standing Stones, not as impressive as Stone Henge but a lot more tiring to walk around.

The final stop on our prehistoric investigation was to see the Uffington White Horse, dating back 3,000 years.

On our way to London we did a circle around the Cotswalds, starting and finishing at Burford in Oxfordshire.

In London the grey skies were still with us.

We walked along the Thames between London and Tower Bridge and got a rare view of the bridge opening to let a Brazilian war ship pass under.

To shelter from the weather, and to tie up a few loose ends, we visited the British Museum.

Having discovered how important the Rosetta Stone was to deciphering Egyptian hieroglyphics, I wanted to see the real thing.

This visit also gave us the opportunity to see the other 50% of the remaining marble sculptures from the Parthenon and Acropolis. There is still a great deal of sensitivity surrounding the ‘acquisition’ by Lord Elgin of these ancient artifacts. So much so that the only free piece of literature in the British Museum, is a leaflet setting out their side of this argument.

We also visited the Natural History Museum, this time to see some of the amazing fossils Mary Anning discovered in Lyme Regis.

Our final day was spent in seaside town of Southend-on-Sea.

Apart from the world’s largest pleasure pier, it doesn’t seem to have much else going for it.

Except the Turnstones.

These migratory birds, who get their name from turning stones to find their dinner, seem to spend a lot of time on one foot.

The next day we headed south to Folkestone and the Eurotunnel. This amazing engineering accomplishment takes you from England to Europe, by train, in just 35 minutes.

French posters. (September 2012)

October 8th, 2012

The French have a history of producing excellent posters.

Many are a strange combination of art, design, sales and humour.

I found this one, with a peculiar Australian perspective, in Chauffeur Les Bonnièreres.