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The soundtracks to our life.

Monday, February 28th, 2022

On Tuesday February 8th, 2022, the composer John Williams turned 90.

Now that’s an incredible achievement within itself, however the amazing thing to come from William’s life was the legacy of movie soundtracks that he created, especially during the 1970s and 1980s.

Soundtracks that not only help us recall the movie but also the time in our lives that they were screened.

He also helped to immortalise some of the new directors who commissioned his music. George Lucas and Stephen Spielberg are just two.

In 2012, Spielberg stated that: “John Williams has been the single most significant contributor to my success as a filmmaker,”

The movies Star Wars, Jaws, Indiana Jones, Close Encounters of the Third Kind, Superman and E.T. The Extra Terrestrial defined a cinematic era.

Other movies, especially the James Bond series that started in the 1960s, used the then currently famous songwriters and performers to write and perform their theme songs. 

Goldfinger, 1964 and Diamonds Are Forever, 1971 are both by Shirley Bassey. Live and Let Die, 1973 by Paul and Linda McCartney and The Spy Who Loved Me, 1977 by Carly Simon, are some I recall.

On reading about John William’s 90th birthday, I searched Spotify for a playlist.

That night, over dinner, we were transported back to another time in our lives.

It’s amazing where music can take you.

Very clever.

Wednesday, December 29th, 2021


I discovered these signs leading to, and in front of, the public toilets in the St Collins Arcade on Little Collins Street, Melbourne. 

They not only indicate that there is a convenience nearby but use the universally accepted graphic to point out exactly where it is and where you need to go. 

This is the first time I have ever seen this done – it’s very clever.

Back to Yack.

Friday, April 30th, 2021

April 22, 2021. Melbourne to Milawa. 

This short break was very much a family affair and built around another return trip to Yackandandah or Yack, as it is affectionately known.

Yack holds a very special place in the hearts of Thea’s family.

Her father, although born in Melbourne, spent much of his early childhood in Yack after his mother died when he was only 8 months old. He was then raised by his grandparents in this quaint country town.

Yackandandah was a former gold mining centre and has its origins in the 1850s. Immigrants from around the world flocked to this area when gold was discovered.

We had visited Yack at this time of year in the past and were taken by the spectacular display of Autumn colours.

We were certainly not disappointed this time as well.

Our first night’s stop on the way to Yack, was at Milawa, an area is known for its wineries and food. 

We had booked into the Gamze Smokehouse and Restaurant for dinner, which was just 200 metres from our motel. 

As the restaurant name suggests, there were lots of local cured meat on offer. We therefore started with the Charcuterie board. 

We should have stopped there, as it was huge. 

They even had Bridge Road Brewery Pale Ale, from Beechworth, on tap as well as many local wines.


Brown Brothers of Milawa (1889)

April 23, 2021. Milawa to Yackandandah.

It was only a short 50km drive to Yack, so we decided to visit some of the famous gourmet food manufacturers that are in the region.

After breakfast at the motel we went looking for a coffee and popped into Brown Brothers.

This celebrated winery, dating back to 1896, was at the forefront in the creation of the Milawa Gourmet Region.

Established in 1994, this food and wine area was the first to be developed in Australia.

As well as wine there are many other culinary delights manufactured in the region, such as mustards, cheeses, breads, olives and, as we discovered, smoked meats.

We did manage to do a bit of shopping before continuing our journey.

Another side trip on the road to Yack, was a stop in Myrtleford. There we walked through the Rotary Park, where we discovered the historic Log Tobacco Kiln that was built in 1957. 

From the 1930s to the 1960s tobacco growing and curing was a major industry in this region. Much of the land was owned and worked by Italian immigrants.

It was then time for a walk and along the Ovens River.

We were accompanied by a group of young adults with disabilities. They were having a great outing and delighted in discovering a series of mosaics that had been created along the river walk.

In the heart of Myrtleford, we discovered Coffee Chakra. It was officially closed but they still managed to serve us. 

It was both a coffee roaster and cafe so the brew was excellent. 

Myrtleford seems to have become a haven for Australians of Indian heritage, as we saw many around the town. They were not just visiting but active in local business as well. In fact the barista, owner and coffee roaster at Coffee Chakra was of Indian origin but with a broad Aussie accent.

On the way out of town we visited The Big Tree. This giant Red River Gum is one of the largest of its kind in Victoria and over 200 years old.

That night there was a large group of 12 for dinner, which was at the Star Hotel.

The Star is also known as the Top Pub, being at the top of Yackandandah’s High Street. It was also very close to the motel where most of us were staying.


Yackandandah Creek

April 24, 2021. Yackandandah. 

We all had a quiet day in Yack, punctuated by a group walk to Yackandandah Creek.

The main purpose was to visit the spot where the ashes of Thea’s father, mother and brother have been scattered.

That night it was dinner at the Yackandandah Hotel, or the Bottom Pub, which, understandably, is at the bottom of the High Street hill.


Lake Hume

April 25, 2021. Yackandandah. 

It was Anzac Day and Yackandandah, like many country towns, had a parade.

High Street was blocked off and the local returned service men and women, as well as others wearing their relative’s medals marched up the hill. After them came the children of the town’s sporting groups, clubs and school.

All this was accompanied by a marching band. 

It was a very short parade that lasted less than 10 minutes. There was then a wreath laying ceremony in the Memorial Park.

In the afternoon we drove to the Huon Reserve car park and did a return walk, along the Lake Hume and High Country Rail Trail to the Sandy Creek Rail Bridge. 

Lake Hume, formerly Hume Reservoir, was constructed between 1919 and 1936 by damming the Murray River downstream of its junction with the Mitta River.

The dam has many purposes, such as flood mitigation, hydro-power, irrigation, water supply and conservation.

There are hundreds of dead trees partly submerged in the lake, giving it the eerie feeling of a tree graveyard. 

That night dinner was back at the Top Pub and being a Sunday night it was much quieter than it had been on Friday.

Friday seems to be the night that country people hit the town.


The grave of George Henry Backhaus (50 years) and John Henry Backhaus (42 years) Who died September 23, 1915

April 26, 2021. Yackandandah to Corryong. 

This was our last morning in Yack, before the shortish drive to Corryong, where we would stay for two nights.

It was a day of ghost hunting for Thea as we meandered towards Corryong.

We stopped at Yabba Cemetery where George and John  Backhaus are buried. Tragically these two brothers, great uncles of Thea, died in a house fire on September 23, 1915.

It was the strangest cemetery I have ever visited. Out in the middle of nowhere, we had to go through a farm gate then walk across paddock to get the cemetery entrance.

Once we reached Corryong I had some work to do and the best place was in the bar of the Corryong Hotel, which is where we were staying.

Well it did have good internet and a bench to put my computer on.

In town the Corryong Hotel/Motel is also known as the Bottom Pub. What is it with this top and bottom thing?

The food was ok and they did have Blowhard Pale Ale from Bright Brewery on tap.

As the kitchen closed at 8:30 so it was an early night, made even more interesting by the size of the room we were in.

You could barely swing a possum in there.

We found the best place to get out of each others way was to sit on the bed and watch TV.


Blue-tongue lizard on the dam wall

 April 27, 2021. Corryong.

Breakfast at the motel wasn’t great but it was included in the cost of the room.

We then had a coffee at the Cafe Corryong Brew, which is next door to White Owl Coffee Roasters.

The coffee was great, that’s after giving the barista a few instructions as to the size and strength of what we wanted.

Today we were searching for the source of the mighty Murray River and not looking for ghosts. 

That was until we discovered that the spring, which is the source, is in an inaccessible wilderness area 

The weather was beautiful with a high of 23°C+ – time to drag out the shorts from the bottom of the bag. 

We did stop at Bringenbrong, which crosses over the Murray River on the border between NSW and Victoria.

From there we drove into NSW and on to Khancoban Dam, where we walked across the dam wall. Halfway across we found a rather large blue-tongue lizard, sunning itself on the side of the road.

The views from the spillway of the Khancoban Pondage and the Swampy Plain River valley were spectacular.

Being in the heart of the Snowy Mountain Scheme we then drove the short distance to the Murray 1 Power Station.

This is just one of seven power stations, sixteen major dams, 145km of interconnected tunnels and 80 km of aqueducts in the Snowy Scheme.

Completed in 1974, it took 25 years to build and today is regarded as one of the seven engineering wonders of the modern world.

It was then back to Corryong where we did a bit of local sightseeing.

The Man from Snowy River, a poem by Banjo Peterson, (1864-1941) is immortalised in a statue by the artist Brett Garling. The statue sits proudly next to the Corryong tourist information office.

The poem was first published in the Bulletin magazine on April 26, 1890 and is one of Australia’s most famous pieces.

It is believed that the The Man, is the legendary local stockman, Jack Riley, who migrated form Ireland to Australia, as a 13-year-old, in 1850.

Another local hero, this one of the canine variety, is Horrie the Wog Dog. His statue is in the memorial gardens, which is next to our favourite coffee shop, Cafe Corryong Brew. 

It’s no coincidence that Horrie’s statue sits near the war memorial celebrating those locals who lost their lives in times of conflict.

Horrie, an Egyptian Terrier, was the unofficial mascot of the 2/1st Machine Gun Battalion of the Second Australian Imperial Force. He was befriended by an Australian soldier, Private Jim Moody, while they were fighting in Egypt during the Second World War.

He served as an air sentry and was promoted to rank of corporal.

Horrie moved around with the Battalion and was finally smuggled back to Australia when Jim Moody was repatriated in 1942.

Due to Australia’s strict quarantine laws it’s believed that Horrie was put down in 1945. However there is an alternative story, that has become local legend, that Moody substituted another dog for Horrie and he lived on in Corryong.

Dinner was at the Corryong Hotel again as there wasn’t much else open. 

That night it was a Super Moon or Pink Moon as it’s described in the northern hemisphere. This has nothing to do with the moon’s hue but the colour of the spring flowers that are found during this Spring moon event. 


Murray Grey cattle in their original habitat

April 28, 2021. Corryong to Melbourne. 

After another good coffee at the Cafe Corryong Brew, we set off on what was to be a long day’s drive home.

The first part was an exploration of the newly named Great River Road. This took us from Corryong through Towong, Walway and Jingellic to Lake Hume.

The scenery was spectacular as we drove west, with the Murray River coming and going on the right hand side.

We even came across the birthplace of the Murray Grey at Thologolong, as well as a small herd grazing on the roadside.

This iconic breed of cattle was discovered by accident in 1905 by the Sutherland family. It can now be found throughout Australia, New Zealand, Asia, North America and Europe.

After the meandering drive along the Murray to Lake Hume it was then onto the Hume Highway and back to Melbourne

We have just spent three weeks in France
during our lockdown in Melbourne.

Monday, September 21st, 2020

For three weeks of our second COVID-19 lockdown we managed to escape, not only from Melbourne, but from Australia, and tour France. 

Thanks to SBS and the Tour de France. 

Starting in Nice on Saturday August 26 and finishing on the Champs-Élysées on Sunday September 20 we traversed some amazing countryside. We experienced coastal vistas, river valleys and alpine passes.

A great part of the enjoyment is seeing France from the air. The helicopter, or possibly drone, shots capture the majesty of the French countryside and rural villages. 

One disappointment of the broadcast was that the commentators didn’t do the usual descriptions of the castles and chateaus we passed along the way. That could have been because the route the tour took might not have been in architectural heritage country. 

This aspect did improve as the tour continued but it certainly wasn’t delivered with the enthusiasm that we have experienced in past tours.

We have always watched the SBS telecast of the tour, that’s when we’ve been home in winter, but this year it was especially welcome. 

Like many in the ‘Couch Peloton’ we don’t have a huge interest in the actual bike race, but the travel was a great distraction. 

And it was surprising just how quickly the three weeks passed. 

Thanks again SBS.


Good news for dogs in Deutschland.

Sunday, August 23rd, 2020

German Agricultural Minister Julia Klöckner

The German Agricultural Minister, Julia Klöckner, has just announced a set of new rules that apply to dog ownership in the country.

These new laws, if approved, will greatly improve the quality of life for the average German pooch.

They include that dogs must be walked at least twice a day, for a total of no less than one hour. Dogs will no longer be able to be left alone all day or tied up for long periods of time.

There are also other rules that apply to living conditions and breeding programs.

In Germany there are over 9 million dogs, with one in five homes owning a canine companion.

Last year, when we were living in Berlin, we were very impressed by how well dogs were treated and how much freedom they have.

There were always dogs walking with their ‘humans’ in the parks and on the streets. Also dogs are allowed just about anywhere: restaurants, bars, public transport and shops, except grocery stores.

However these new rules must be put in the context of how and where the average German lives.

This is a country of apartments, not quarter acre blocks, therefore dogs don’t have a large house or a back yard to run around in, so daily exercise is essential.

There is some criticism of these new rules, but one thing is certain, if they pass, it will be anything but a ‘dog’s life’ for the average German hund.

I can only assume by these actions that Minister Klöckner is a dog lover.

Málaga to Madrid, with many diversions
along the way. (September 2016)

Wednesday, November 30th, 2016



The relaxing and partying part of our trip was over and it was now down to the touring.

We picked up our rented Seat Leon in Granada and headed south to the coast and Málaga and eventually Madrid.

Our first stop after leaving Granada was at Alhama de Granada. The locals were preparing for a festival and bull fight, that was to start on the weekend.

Unfortunately we were three days too early.

It would have been good to be there for the festival but not the bull fight.

Our apartment in Málaga was in the centre of town and an olive’s pip spit away from the cathedral. There was a restaurant and bar, El Jardín, just outside our entrance. It was so close to our accommodation that the apartment’s WiFi still worked while we were having an evening drink.

The temperature was ten degrees lower than Granada but the humidity was way higher.

Our host, Pepe, had suggested that we go to El Pimpi, a wine bar and restaurant. Apparently it’s an institution in Málaga and not to be missed.

It was a very well oiled tourist machine.

The service was swift, the prices reasonable and it’s vast. It also proudly boasts photos of many well known people who have visited there over the years.

Sean Connery and Tony Blair are two that I recognised, however the snaps of them were taken well before they became famous.

Looking for some exercise we had a walk along Málagueta. This is a long stretch of sandy beach, not far from the centre of Malaga, but then everything is within walking distance there.

The Picasso Museum in Málaga is housed in the elegant Palacio de Buenavista, which was another short walk from our apartment.

The irony of the Picasso Museum is that Pablo, Málaga’s favourite son, last visited the city when he was 19 years old – he lived to be 92.

The narrative of the museum is all about Picasso’s belief in what art should do.

“Art is both an offensive and defensive weapon.”

The collection spans eight decades of his work and includes ceramics, portraiture, landscaped and sculpture.

One piece that fascinated me was his 1921 ‘Mother and Child’. This was done in the monumental style of Cézanne and Renoir and seems to allude to a father figure that’s almost fused in with the mother.

He is in the shadows but his face and left arm are distinctly masculine. This painting was a celebration of Picasso’s joy and amazement at becoming a father.

Picasso’s ceramics and simple line engravings still remain my favourites.

There was huge activity in the Cathedral, which was just across the road from our room. It was festival season in Spain and Málaga Cathedral was in the midst of the Festival of the Holy Virgin Mary.

The streets were shut off to make way for the bands, community groups, police and religious icons that were paraded around the cathedral. It was constant, as they came out of one door of the church and then in another.


Ronda and the White Villages.

We were originally going to stay in Ronda and explore the White Villages from there.

However when we went to book accommodation there was nothing available within our price range. We tried to stay at the Parador in Ronda once before but it was closed due to industrial trouble. This time the rooms available were so expensive it would have used up a weeks worth of our travel allowance.

This all turned out to be due to yet another festival.

The Festival of Pedro Romero (1754-1839) is a celebration of one of Spain’s most famous bull fighters. Pedro is said to have changed the style of fighting bulls. He fought the bulls on foot, rather than horseback and used a cape and sword.

Our next option was to stay in one of the White Villages and explore the Pueblos Blancos from there.

We chose Júzcar.

This village wasn’t white at all but Smurf Blue.

In 2011 Júzcar was selected to be the venue for the launch of Sony Pictures ‘The Smurfs 3D’. This required the village to be painted Smurf Blue.

It took three weeks, 20 painters and 9,000 litres of paint to transform this white village to a blue one.

Later that year the residents voted to keep their village blue and were rewarded in 2013 by becoming the promotional venue for ‘Smurfs 2’.

The Smurf theme runs throughout the town with statues and murals of Smurfs, Smurf gift shops and mushroom shaped information booths.

It’s unique, a bit chintzy but a lot of fun.

And a very good marketing move by the residents.

Situated in the Upper Genal Valley, Juzcar is one of seven White Villages, Paruata, Cartajima, Pujerra, Igualeja, Faraján, Alpandeire and Júzcar.

Júzcar is more a Pueblos Azul than Blanco.

The White Villages were why we were in the area but discovering a blue one was a bonus.

The White Villages were originally built by Berber farmers from North Africa. They settled in Andalusia in the 9th and 10th centuries, during the early days of Moorish rule. By the 11th century the Christian reconquest forced the farmers to move to higher ground. The Moorish tradition of enclosed narrow streets, built in inaccessible hillside locations made their villages safer from attack.

But not that safe as every one has a church, convent or monastery. These were all built over the ruins of former mosques.

Our hotel in Júzcar, was the aptly named Hotel Bandolero, was run by David and Iván. David was originally from NYC while Iván is Spanish and comes from just outside of Madrid.

It had a pleasant atmosphere and the food was excellent, not surprising considering that Iván is a London trained, Cordon Bleu chef.

Iván’s talents when beyond the culinary, as he was responsible for painting many of the Smurf murals around the town.

We extended our stay by another night to give ourselves more time exploring the surrounding villages and magnificent countryside.

On our first day we drove via Alpandeire and the Cathedral Church of St Antonio de Padua then on to Cueva de la Pileta or Cave of the Pool, in English.

Luck can sometimes be on your side.

We arrived at the caves just before 1 PM,  just in time for the tour, the last before it reopened again at 4 PM.

The guide was excellent and did the tour in both Spanish and English. We had been told this isn’t always the case.

The Pileta Caves were fist discovered in 1905 by a Spanish farmer Jośe Bullón. They were opened to the public in 1924, after a more suitable entrance was discovered by Bullón’s son. The caves contain many paintings, that were first believed to be Moorish but later found to be Neolithic.

Descendants of Jośe still operate small group tours through the cave and they are very careful to protect what they have.

No photos are allowed.

We then drove to Grazalema via Mirador de Benaoján, where we got some great views of the imposing country side.

In this part of Spain the roads have more twists and turns than a US presidential election and there are very few opportunities to stop and take in the view.

Miradors or view points are rare.

In the heart of Grazalema is a statue of two men and a bull with a rope around its neck.

This is very significant in the history of this small white village. The ‘Roped Bull from Grazalema’ is part of a Celtic tradition that goes back 2,500 years. In Grazalema the Feast of the Tied Bulls goes back even further, as it celebrates the ancient sport of hunting wild bulls with ropes.

This was the forerunner to modern day bullfighting.

The next day we headed out again, this time to the south.

Our first village was Genalguacil and like many of the White Villages it has suffered from the financial crisis that has hit these small isolated townships.

Their answer was art.

Every two years Genalguacil holds an art festival. All the work produced over the two weeks of the festival remains the property of the village, so art is everywhere.

Genalguacil has a permanent population of around 522. The festival attracts 8,000 visitors biannually. And, like us, many more come to see this living gallery at other times of the year.

Their investment in art has certainly paid off.


Gibraltar and Tarifa.

In a bizarre turn of events, as soon as we approached Gibraltar, British weather took hold.

The rock was shrouded in a thick mist, blocking out the sunshine that we had enjoyed for the past few weeks.

How very English.

” I hurts in places where I used to play.” These words from the late, master lyricist, Leonard Cohen, were very apt, after we spent a few hours clambering over ‘The Rock’. Having recently spent a lot of time sitting in a car, getting out and exercising had its down side.

The Barbary Apes or Barbary Macaques (they are not really apes) are everywhere on the rock of Gibraltar and they are a problem.

They are the only wild monkey population on the European continent and descended from North African Macaques. They have been there longer than the British and were most likely introduced by the Moors somewhere between 711 and 1492.

The problem is that people want to feed them, despite the signs that are everywhere. The monkeys know this and can become very aggressive in their search for the food that they believe is intended for them.

I found that the condition of Gibraltar, as a tourist attraction, was very poor. The infrastructure was outdated and the paths were in need of maintenance.

St Michael’s Cave is a network of limestone caves within the rock. Due to the discovery of two Neanderthal skulls, it is believed that the caves could have first been inhabited around 40,000 BC.

With a stage and flood lights in the largest grotto, St Michael’s Cave was in total contrast to the Pileta Caves, and more a disco than a natural wonder.

What was interesting were the Great Siege Tunnels that were built by the British during the American War of Independence. It is the longest siege that has been endured by the British forces, lasting three years and seven months.

These tunnels were dug for the fourteenth and final siege of the war and are a masterpiece of manual labour.

Thirteen men, using sledgehammers and crowbars, aided by gunpowder, took five weeks to dig a tunnel that was 25 meters in length and 0.74 metres square. Subsequent tunnels were dug and the total construction, which was completed in 1783, measured 277 metres in length.

The Moorish Castle which is near the entrance to the tunnels was started around 711, there is no record of when it was completed. The castle played an important part in the Muslim invasion of the Iberian Peninsula.

Dotted around the township of Gibraltar are token telephone and letter boxes and you can even see the odd Union Jacks fluttering in the breeze.

Just a reminder that they’re British on the Rock.

Our accommodation was at the Rock Hotel which opened in 1932.

Errol Flynn, Alec Guinness, Winston Churchill and Sean Connery have stayed there.

We had a ‘dock view’, which is about all you get from the Gibraltar waterfront.

However if we leant over our balcony and looked to the left we could see North Africa.

Dinner at the Angry Fryer was a curry with rice plus a steak and kidney pie with peas and chips.

You could get any combination of the dishes on offer, all with chips. The food was the old style ‘pub grub’ and certainly not influenced by Jamie Oliver.

Mine was washed down by a pint of John Smiths. The beer was good but the wine was cask, as you would expect in an English pub.

The British theme continued.

On the way to Cádiz we detoured to Tarifa. At 36 degrees latitude it’s on the southern most tip of Spain and continental Europe.

It’s also the wind sport capital of Europe.



Driving to Cádiz the scenery and weather changed.

The winds got stronger and coming into Cádiz we experienced a fierce thunderstorm. Visibility was reduced to 30 metres and the windscreen wipers were going at top speed.

It could have had something to do with the fact that we also moved from the Mediterranean to the Atlantic.

In Tarifa we saw hundreds of kite surfers and in Cádiz the board riders were out looking to crack the big Atlantic swells.

This coastline is certainly different.

In the evening the sun came out again but the temperature was lower and there was still a strong wind.

Cádiz is the oldest continually inhabited city in Spain, going back as far as 1104 BC, and one of the oldest in Western Europe. Being a port city it played a vital role in developing trade with the Americas. Christopher Columbus sailed from Cádiz on his second and fourth voyages and it was the home port of the Spanish treasure fleet.

The Spanish Constitution, of 1812, was written in Cádiz, so there is a great deal of history in the city. The constitution, although never fully implemented, was one of the most liberal for its time. It was repealed by Ferdinand VII in 1814, reinstated again in 1820 and then rewritten by the Progressives in 1837.

There are buildings and monuments all over the city tracing the history of Cádiz.

The Roman Theatre or Theatrum Balbi was thought to have been built during the 1st century BC and is one of the largest ever built in the Roman Empire.

It was abandoned in the 4th century AD and in the 13th century a fort was built on its ruins.

It was only rediscovered in 1980 while work was being carried out on the Arab fort.

The Cádiz Cathedral, built between 1722 and 1838, is known as the ‘The Cathedral of The Americas’ As it was funded by money that came from the lucrative trade between Spain and America.

It was designed by Vicente Acero, who also built the cathedral in Granada.

Inside the cathedral there is a net beneath the ceiling. This is needed, as there is a lot of fallen masonry caught in the net, between the ceiling and the congregation or in our case the tourists below.

I think some serious money needs to be spent again on the cathedral.

We climbed Levante Tower and got a spectacular panoramic view of the city.

In the Plaza de la Catedral there was an exhibition of six of Henry Moore’s monumental sculptures. They sat beautifully against the backdrop of the baroque/neoclassical styled cathedral.

In the Museum of the Cádiz Constitution there is a 1/250 scale model of Cádiz by Alfonso Ximénez  in fine wood, Ivory and silver. Created between 1777 and 1779. It’s a wonderful insight as to how Cádiz would have looked in the 18th century, its golden age.

On our second night we found Restaurate Sopranis.

We had to wander around Cádiz, for about an hour, waiting for it to open at 9 pm.

It was worth it.

Their opening hours were traditionally Spanish but their food wasn’t. It was Andalusian with a contemporary flair, beautifully presented with delicate flavours.



We decided to have our ‘Paradore experience’ in Mérida.

Paradores are divided into three different types.

Paradores Civia, are urban hotels in the heart of the city. Paradores Naturia are where you can enjoy nature or the coast and Paradore Esentia are in historic buildings.

We were staying in the latter style.

Our Paradore in Mérida was originally an 18th century convent.

Mérida is full of Roman antiquity, so much that our Parador had them as garden ornaments.

There was so much to see that we decided to stay an extra night.

Mérida is a tale of two cities as we stayed, and loved Mérida in Mexico.

Augusta Emerita, now Mérida, was founded in 25 BC by Augustus to resettle emeritus soldiers who had been discharged from the Roman army.

With theatres, amphitheatres, aqueducts, temples and arches it is certainly a very well equiped retirement village.

The Archaeological Ensemble of Mérida, is one of the largest and most extensive archaeological sites in Spain. It was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1993.

Mérida is sometimes known as the Spanish Rome.

After viewing the ruins you don’t go out for a spaghetti, pizza or gnocchi but rather tortilla, croquettes or jamon.

There is also the 9th century Alcazaba, or Muslim fortification, located very close to the Roman bridge or Puente Romano.

The Alcazaba has seen many battles.

Isabel Católica in 1479, Napoleon in 1811 and finally the Spanish Civil War in 1936. Preceding these, were conflicts involving the Romans, Visigoths and Arabs.

The 762 metres wide Puente Romano is the the world’s longest surviving bridge from ancient times. Just near the bridge is a statue of Romulus and Remus, a reminder of Mérida’s ancient heritage.

When we arrived Mérida was like morgue, even the fountain in the main square was having a siesta.

It was a different story in the evening.

The locals were out and they obviously knew something that we didn’t, as they all had on warmer clothes for the much cooler evenings.

I decided to buy a light weight jumper and found a Pull and Bear outlet.

For the cost of a main course, €15, I got a light weight cotton jumper.

I do like shopping in Spain.

After two full days of visiting the archeological sites of Mérida we gave ourselves a half day off.

An excursion to the Basíca de Santa Eulalia and the Circus Romano in the morning was followed by lunch at the Parador.

I had a siesta, Thea did some photo editing and then at 9pm we headed out into the town again.

It was alive – not with tourists but locals all enjoying the balmy evening air. I didn’t need the jumper I had purchased the night before.

Even at 11pm the plaza near the Parador was still crowded.

The Circo Romano is one of the features of Mérida, if only for its size. It was modelled on the Circus Maximus in Rome and could hold up to 30,000 spectators. It’s over 400 meters in length and 30 meters wide.

The construction of the circus is very symbolic, which is explained in the well organised and informative signage.

“The circus in the Roman world was a building full of symbolism.

The power of the emperor and the cosmos were one and the same, and both were represented in the elements of this building.

One could say the the circus represented a miniature universe.

The arena symbolised the Earth and its shape represented a full year, which the charioteers were to travel seven times atop their chariots.”

It continued:

“Turn your attention to the chariot gates located at the far right of the building.

Each one of them symbolises the twelve months of the year.

The chariot, pulled by horses, symbolises the sun and the charioteer represented the god Apollo.

The seven laps of each race were identified with the seven days of the week, and usually 24 races were carried out, equalling one day.

Four divisions, or teams, existed. Each one was identified by a colour.

The teams symbolised the four seasons of the year.”

Another sign read:

“Now take note of the central barrier which divides the circus arena.

The pool symbolises the ocean and the obelisk, located in the centre, represented the sun at dusk.

At the end of the central barrier, the starting point and goal were located: the ‘dawn starting point’ was where the race began and the ‘secondary goal point’ was where it ended.

Both represented the East and the West.”

It was time to leave Rome and head back to Spain.


Trujillo, Toledo and Aranjuez.

On our way to Toledo we found a cafe right on the Plaza Major in Trujillo for lunch.

It was hard to find a free table as there were a number of large ones set.

Then a tour bus turned up and we realised why.

We left very quickly.

We wanted to visit Trujillo, as we now had a family connection. Andrea’s maternal surname is Trujillo, so it was important that we made a visit.

It is also has a many Medieval and Renaissance buildings that were either built or renovated by the conquistadors.

We arrived in Toledo late in the afternoon and after checking into our hotel we went for a stroll around the Old Town.

The Almunia de San Miguel Hotel, where we were staying, was in a narrow back street and took some finding.

I think it’s operated by just two people. The manager, who only turns up when there are guests to welcome, and the house maid who serves breakfast and cleans the rooms.

It was centrally located and in an old Moorish house with traditional furnishings.

We were offered a choice of rooms. In fact, going by the number of tables set for breakfast, I think we were the only people there.

This would have to go down as one of the weirdest places we have ever stayed at.

We didn’t see the manager again until our last morning, breakfast wasn’t available on the second day, as the house maid had to take her child to hospital. The Internet was promised but we could never log on.

The manager was very apologetic for the stuff-ups and gave us two nights for the price of one.

The next day we needed to prepare for our African trip, so went looking for a Lavanderias or Laundromat.

The house maid had no idea where there was one so we Googled a chain we had discovered in Granada.

Sure enough we found one but it was a taxi ride away.

Getting a taxi there wasn’t an issue but finding one to get back was.

You can’t seem to be able to hail a taxi off the street in Toledo.

Toledo is built high on a hill, so we resigned ourself to the walk back up that hill. Then we discovered the escalator, six levels of fast moving, leg saving luxury.

The afternoon was spent walking around city.

We spent an hour or so in the Cathedral, a magnificent structure, regarded by many as the best example of Gothic architecture in Spain. It was started in 1226 and finished during the rule of the Catholics Monarchs in 1493.

It was as much an art gallery as a church as there were examples from many artists. Goya, Titian, Rubens, Rafael and more are to be found in the Cathedral Museum.

Their pride and star attraction is The Disrobing of Christ by El Greco. Started in 1577 and completed in 1579, it now adorns the High Altar of the sacristy.

In Plaza San Justo, not far from our hotel, we came across Virtudes Café and Bar.

They had craft beer.

They had two varieties, a larger or rubia and a red beer, or roja, both in bottles and especially brewed for Virtudes.

It was great to have a change from the mass produced beers I had been drinking since leaving Barcelona.

The roja paired very well with the Manchebo cheese and Spanish olives we had for tapas.

After breakfast on our last day in Spain we decided to drive to Aranjuez, which is half way between Toledo and Madrid.

Firstly we found a good lookout, overlooking Toledo, and after getting a few snaps, from the other side of the Tagus River.

Aranjuez is the home to the Royal Summer Palaces. It has been one of the Royal Estates of the Crown of Spain since the times of Philip II in 1560.

All we really wanted was a walk so we strolled around the magnificent gardens of the palace.

Well they would have been magnificent in spring and early summer. The heat had devastated most of the flowers beds and box hedges and the the leaves on the plain trees were starting to turn.

Autumn was on its way.

Aranjuez was yet another diversion, before we headed to Madrid and our 9:40pm flight to Nairobi.

There spring had just started.

Back to the Old World. (September 2015)

Tuesday, December 29th, 2015

It was a long flight from New York City to Europe, via Reykjavik, with Icelandic Air. This was the last few weeks of our adventure and it was a packed itinerary, with Switzerland, Malta and Germany on the agenda.



Jet-lagged from the Trans Atlantic flight we stretched our legs with a walking tour around the old part of Zurich. We wandered along the Limmat River and down to the Zurich Lake, through the narrow streets lined with cafes, restaurants and trendy boutiques.

The next morning we had another stroll around the old city centre. Our first stop was the train station to sort out our tickets for the next few days.

We then caught an afternoon train to Schaffhausen, where we were met by Heinz and taken down to the Rhine Falls, or Rheinfall. These are the largest plain water falls in Europe and were formed in the last ice age, somewhere between 14,000 and 17,000 years ago.

In the late afternoon we were joined by Mieke and she guided us around beautiful old Schaffhausen. The city has a long history, being first named as Villa Scafhusen in 1045. We visited the Allerheiligen Convent which was constructed between 1049 and 1064. Mieke insisted that we then make a brief stop at the local gaol, the venue of Thea’s famous indiscretion some 43 years earlier.

That evening we had a very pleasant meal of raclette, wine and conversation with Heinz and Mieke.

The next day we caught the train to Bern where we met up with Denis and Martine. The intention had been for the six of us to spend the weekend walking in the Bernese Oberland. Unfortunately the weather forecast was for storms, so we opted to spend a day in Bern and then drive back to Arnex and stay at Châteaux Barclay.

After a stroll around the main areas of Bern we caught the bus to the Paul Klee Centre. Klee is one of Bern’s favourite sons and the museum houses about 40% of his oeuvre. Completed in 2005 it was designed by the Italian architect Renzo Piano and features a wave formation roof line.

The current show was a joint exhibition, featuring the works Paul Klee (1897-1940) and Wassily Kandinsky (1866-1944).  Both these men are considered to be the ‘fathers’ of Classical Modernism. As the curators notes said: “ …their friendship was one of the most fascinating of the twentieth century. Their relationship was shaped by mutual inspiration and support, but also by rivalry and competition.”

After an educational and entertaining few hours we then drove to Arnex, where we spent a very pleasant few days in this delightful Swiss/French village.

We had lunch at a restaurant on Le Chasseron, a peak in the Jura Mountains. It overlooked the Swiss Alps on one side and Sainte-Croix on the other.

Heinz and Mieke returned to Schaffhausen and we spent our last day with Martine’s extended family, at a Morel family picnic.

Denis then drove us to Yverdon, where we caught the train to Zurich.

Our next destination was Malta.



Just 38 years after Christopher Columbus discovered the New World in 1492, the Knights of Saint John were putting down their roots in Malta.

The Knights of Saint John or Knights Hospitaller or Knights of Malta as they are variously known, are so important that the call sign for Air Malta is KM or Knights of Malta.

Currently Malta is a country under renovation. Everywhere you travel there are construction cranes and works in progress.

Huge scale building projects are being carried out on the Island of Malta and to a lesser degree on the smaller island of Gozo. It most cases this work is being 85% funded by the European Union.

On our first night in Malta we went to the nearest restaurant, Kalkara Regatta, it was right on the marina and only 100 meters from our guest house.

We sat outside and enjoyed the fireworks display that went on for nearly two hours.

It was part of a celebration to commemorate the end of the Great Siege of Malta. In 1565 the Ottoman Empire tried to invade Malta but were held off by the Knights Hospitaller, 2,000 soldiers and 400 Maltese citizens.

There are a number of peninsulas that go to make up the greater city area and each one has a self contained township.

We were staying on Kalkara which means ‘lime’ in Latin. In fact the motto for Kalkara is ‘A Calce Nomen’ or Lime is my name. Kalkara is only two peninsulas away from Valetta, and offers relatively easy access to the capital.

Malta has been inhabited since 5,200 BC and in prehistoric times was once part of a land bridge that joined Africa and Europe.

Malta is bi-lingual.

English is very common, with the local language, Malti, being a real mixture of Italian, Arabic and English. This is understandable considering Malta’s close proximity to Sicily and North Africa.

It’s a weird accent and hard to place exactly what it’s origins are. The locals gesticulate and shout like Italians. Yet there is a seriousness that is more Slavic than Arabic.

The English influence manifests itself in the Zebra Crossings, red telephone and letter boxes and the fact that they drive on the left.

However the Maltese drive like Italians, not Brits.

There is a very old joke that goes something like, “How do you make a Maltese cross? Answer: “You poke him in the eye.” The Maltese Cross is so rooted in history that it’s found everywhere. Apart from the national flag, which uses a George Cross.

Due to its strategic position in the Southern Mediterranean, Malta has been subjected to more than one siege. From 1940 to 1942 the Axis forces, of Italy and Germany, blockaded Malta’s supply lines. They were determined to either bomb or starve the population into submission.

The WWII Siege Memorial commemorates the award of the George Cross to Malta, hence its proud position on the flag.

I had to work most of the day, so it was a late start to go sight seeing. At about 4pm we took the bus into Valletta. If took half an hour to wind our way around the three peninsulas. I am sure the water taxi would be faster as it’s only about 1 kilometre, as the crow flies.

In the evening the fire works were exploding again, and for a second night running we got a glimpse from our table. This was much to Thea’s annoyance, as she is a pyromaniac and anything that has flashes of fire, smoke and goes bang is a must see.

She would have rather been in the thick of it.

There must be at least 365 Saint’s Days or days of commemorations celebrated in Malta, as there was festivities, with flags, fireworks and festivals every day we were in the country.

The 16th Century city wall of Valletta was built, in the local honey-coloured limestone, by the Knights of St John. Recently the entrance and the square, that’s just inside the wall, have been dramatically redeveloped by Renzo Piano, using the same materials. This innovative Italian architect is also responsible for the London Shard, a new city landmark and the Paul Klee Centre that we had visited just a few days earlier in Bern.

Renzo is certainly getting some work.

After another day working we headed to Birgu. This is one of the other peninsula towns that’s adjacent to Kalkara. It had rained most of the day, so the time spent in front of the computer had kept us from getting soaked.

Day three and still working. This time we walked to Birgu and got the water Taxi to Valletta. It was a much faster and more pleasant trip.

It was late in the afternoon and the sun was low in the sky. All of Valletta and the surrounding towns are built from the same limestone as the walls, so come sunset they glow.

Valletta gets its name from Fra’ Jean Parisot de la Vallette (1495-1568) who was famous for his gallant role in the Great Siege of 1565 and the building of Valletta.

The peninsulas are serviced by a good bus service, which we had previously used, unfortunately it runs infrequently after 8pm.

We had to wait for an hour to get the last bus back to Kalkara.

As usual the taxis were being parasites and wanted €30 for the twenty minute ride.

We waited for the bus.

After four days the work was finished so we hired a car. The tiny black Peugeot 107, looked very smart but couldn’t pull the skin of a rice pudding.

Our first stop was Mdina, a beautiful walled medieval city. From antiquity until 1530 it was the original capital of Malta, it was then moved to Birgu and finally to Valletta.

One of our first stops was St. Paul’s Cathedral, built between 1697 and 1702. Here, under the intricate marble inlayed floor, we found the tombs of many Maltese luminaries, including some Mifsuds. We have some good friends in Australia with the same name, we later discovered that they have a connection to the Mifsuds of Malta.

Just over the road from the church is the Mdina Cathedral Museum. This compact museum contains Christian and Pre-Christian artifacts, including paintings, ceramics, pottery, coins and silverware.

The coin collection started with the Carthaginians, Phoenicians and Greeks. It then went through the rise an fall of the Roman Empire to the Byzantium, Arab, Norman, Spanish and French periods of Maltese history. The collection highlighted the churches power during the Maltese Middle Ages, culminating with the British period. It ended with a contemporary Maltese commemorative collection.

It was a who’s who of Maltese conquerors.

There was also an excellent collection of woodcuts and copper plates by Albrecht Dürer (1471-1528) the German engraver. Dürer is one of my favourite artists of the German Renaissance, so this was a real find.

We then went for a drive down to the coastline south west of Mdina around Dingli. This is the highest point in Malta and still only 13km from Valletta – Malta isn’t very big.

Dominating the Dingli Cliffs is the MATS Area Radar Station. Constructed in 1939 it was the first radar facility to be build outside of the UK. It was part of an early warning system designed to defend Malta during the Second World War.

Not far up the coast is the Chapel of St Mary Magdalene. The chapel was originally built in the 13th, century, restored in 1646 and restored yet again in 2007. This area is on the tourist route, so there were busloads of travellers trying to get a snap of the famous chapel.

Dingli is less than 400km from the coast of Libya, yet there appears to be very few refugees coming from North Africa. In fact only 105 of the estimated 1 million that have arrived Europe in 2015, passed through the islands of Malta.

Having started with fireworks on Monday night, we ended the week with a live music performance, titled, Music Under the Stars.

The show was put on by the local Kalkara Council and staged in front of Saint Joseph’s Church, which was just 100 meters from our hotel.

We ate at the Supernova Heights Restaurant, which is next to the church, and had front row seats.

It was dinner and a show, for the price of a dinner.

The first band was the Copenhagen Brass Ensemble.

They played a collection of popular tunes which included the theme song to the Bond movie, Skyfall.

Then the local folk dancers took over. They were all in traditional costumes which looked surprisingly Swiss. Strange considering we were in the middle of the Mediterranean and very close to North Africa. But not surprising when you see how the Italians have influenced Malta and the fact that Italy does go as far north as the Alps.

Then there was a marching band from Estonia, again playing many popular melodies. The band master was a real character and produced a range of of miniature instruments to accompany each song.

My favourite was his use of a train whistle in ‘Chattanooga Choo Choo’

The final band of the evening were Maltese. They were young and very serious – as was their music.

They did play a medley of American Western themes followed by another one of ABBA songs, including Dancing Queen, Mama Mia and Fernando. This brightened up their performance considerably.

All-in-all it was a very cosmopolitan night.

We had heard about the Sunday market at Marsaxlokk and decided to drive there to see what it was all about.

The market consisted of fresh fish, fruit, veg and an over abundance of souvenirs.

Marsaxlokk is a fishing village and port in the south eastern part of the Island of Malta. It was here during the 9th Century BC that the Phoenicians first landed and set up a trading post. It was also the main anchorage point for the Ottomans during the Great Siege of Malta.

Within the Marsaxlokk Harbour are many brightly coloured traditional fishing boats or Luzzi.  Each one has a pair of eyes painted on the bow. The eyes are believed to date back to Phoenician times and are said to protect the fishermen at sea.

From Marsaxlokk we drove to Saint Thomas Tower, via IL Kalanka Beach. There was no beach just a rocky outcrop, very reminiscent of the ‘beaches’ we saw in Croatia.

Not far from Saint Thomas was an abandoned hotel, with some rather stunning graffiti painted on the crumbling walls. The Jerma Palace Hotel closed in March 2007 and the area is now derelict. The hotel owners have walked away from the site and there is now an ongoing argument about who is responsible for cleaning it up.

In much better condition that the hotel, is Saint Thomas Tower. Built in 1614, this is the largest watchtower in Malta. The tower was built in response to the Raid of Žejtun, when the Ottomans landed in Saint Thomas Bay.

This was the last attempt by the Ottomans to conquer Malta.

We then drove back to Valletta, this time entering from the western side through Silema. It was here, looking across Marsamxett Harbour, that we got some great views of Saint Paul’s Anglican Cathedral and Our Lady of Mount Carmel.

We enjoyed the view over a cooling lemonade, at the Hotel Fortina, before heading back to our hotel in Kalkara.

Transport costs in Malta are erratic, to say the least.

The bus from Kalkara to Valletta is €2.00pp, while the water taxi from Birgu, which is closer to Valletta, is €2.50pp. A taxi wants the extortionate price of €30.00 and the most reliable trip, by ferry, only asks 50 cents.

On our third day with the Peugeot we drove to the top of Malta Island and took the car ferry to Gozo.

Gozo is the second largest island in the Maltese Archipelago, next to the island of Malta. It is far more rural and less developed. Gone were the ever present construction cranes, high density housing and traffic.

One of the main historical attractions on Gozo are the Ggantija Temples. This Neolithic site is believed to be over 5,000 years old and amongst the world’s oldest free-standing religious structures. They are in fact older than the pyramids of Egypt. Ggantija means giant in Malti, as the temples were believed to have been built by giants. They were made a UNESCO site in 1980.

In 1928 Swiss architect Le Corbusier (1887-1965) visited the site. Which is ironic, as here was a pioneer of modern architecture visiting one of the world’s most ancient structures.

After three days with the car we only drove 204km, over two islands and got into fourth gear once, – the Peugeot had five.

As I have mentioned earlier, Malta is very small.

On our last day we went walking in Valletta.

The first stop was Saint John’s Co-Cathedral. Built by the Knights of Malta between 1573 and 1578 it is regarded as one of the world’s finest examples of Baroque architecture.

The facade was being restored so their was little to see except scaffolding.

The interior is very ornate, with crypts containing elaborate frescos as well as the remains of many of the Grand Masters of the Knights of Malta.

Much of the artwork was done by the Calabrian artist and Knight, Mattia Preti (1613-1699). Preti was a follower of Caravaggio, which is evident in the late Baroque style of his work.

This cathedral is as much about the Knights of Saint John as it is about Catholicism in Malta.

The cathedral’s architect, Geralomo Cassar (1520-1592) would be horrified to see that these days most visitors enter the cathedral from the side. The front door offers a grand view and shows off the architecture to its best advantage. Now with many churches charging for entry, the side door is the easiest place to put the ticket office.

Another very interesting church was the Basilica of Our Lady of Mt. Carmel. The architect of the original church was also Geralomo Cassar. It was rebuilt, adding the oval dome, after it was bombed during WWII.

There is a very Italian feel to most of the architecture in Valletta, such as Saint Paul’s Pro-Cathedral and the Grandmaster’s Palace. Yet there is also a touch of England, like the statue of Queen Victoria that’s sits outside the Valletta Library.

There is so much history in Valletta, it’s little wonder that the entire city was made a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1980.

On our last morning we wandered over to Birgu again, to kill a few hours before catching our flight to Berlin. Most of our time was spent in the the Inquisitor’s Palace, which was originally built in 1530 as a law court for the Order of St John.

In 1574, following the establishment of the Roman Inquisition, the palace became the residence of the inquisitor.

Today it houses the National Museum of Ethnography, focussing on the inquisition and its impact on Maltese history.



Hayden and Andrea have now moved from Barcelona to Berlin and their new apartment was going to be our base for our final days in Europe. They are living in the old eastern sector and very close to Alexanderplatz. This is a newly developed part of the city with many restaurants, bars and apartments popping up to cater for the expanding population.

This area of Berlin is home to many of the tech companies that have moved to Northern Germany.

English seems to be the default language.

Hayden had taken a couple of days off to show us around the city and our first stop was Bernauer Straße. This street was originally in the French sector of West Berlin and all the buildings on the eastern side of the street, in the eastern sector, were emptied and their windows and doors bricked up. When the wall was constructed in 1961 they were pulled down.*

There is now a memorial and a walk with displays, describing the wall and its history. This is the only remaining section of the wall and a big tourist attraction for visitors and locals.

We then did a walk around some more of the Berlin sites like the Cathedral, DDR Museum, Neue Wache or new Guardhouse, Brandenburg Gate and the Reichstag.

On Saturday we all went down to Kurfüstendamm which was in West Berlin, when the wall was up.

We had been there in 2005 and noticed a big change. The area had returned to its previous upmarket style and was again full of designer boutiques and luxury car showrooms.

Even the hotel we had stayed in ten years ago was now boasting four stars – it was only three when we were there.

On Sunday we all went to Wedding for lunch in a traditional German beer garden. The weather had turned cold so the coats were pulled out of the bags.

Our long northern summer was finally over.

While Hayden and Andrea were at work on Monday we walked down to Checkpoint Charlie at the corner of Friedrichstraße and Zimmerstraße. We were last there in 1972, when the wall still divided the city and the eastern sector was a barren wasteland of bombed out buildings and vast open spaces.

In 72’ the streets were empty and so were the supermarkets shelves.

Now it’s an outdoor museum complete with actors, dressed in WWII uniforms, posing for the tourists. There are also many restaurants, apartment buildings and well-to-do shops in the area.

There’s no shortage of wealth there.

On our last day we took the train to Potsdam, which is about 24km from Berlin. Until 1918 Potsdam was the home of the Prussian kings and the German Kaiser.

Much of the city is designated as UNESCO World Heritage Sites and has only been accessible since the collapse of the German Democratic Republic (GDR) in 1990.

We caught the bus from Potsdam Station to Sanssouci Palace.

This was built between 1745 and 1747 as the Summer residence of King Frederick the Great of Prussia. The literal translation of Sanssouci is ‘No Worries’. Frederick II wanted a place that was an escape from life in the Berlin Court.

Frederick the Great was a lover, not a fighter like his father, and the Sanssouci Palace reflects this. He was interested in art, music, poetry and a good time.

The building’s Rococo style certainly suited the King’s romantic tendencies.

A popular and regular visitor to the palace was the French philosopher Voltaire. Surprisingly Frederick was such a Francophile that he spoke better French than German.

While we were waiting to tour Sanssouci Palace we did a quick trip around the Renaissance inspired Orangery Palace. Built by Friedrich Wilhelm IV between 1851 and 1864, it was designed to be part of a much larger complex, but politics and lack of funds got in the way.

One of the grandest yet strangest rooms was Raphael Hall, containing over fifty copies of famous Renaissance works. According to our guide this was a way of bringing these masterpieces to the public. Albeit a very exclusive public that were guests of the King.

In this room the art had a religious theme, in keeping with the king’s conservative Christian beliefs.

For the rest of the afternoon we wandered around the Sanssouci Gardens.

We did stumble across the Chinese House, which was built between 1755 and 1764. It was built in the Chinoiserie Style, a mixture of ornamental Rococo elements and Chinese architecture.

From what little we saw, Potsdam was an interesting place, further exploration is certainly warranted.

But that will have to wait for another trip.

That evening we had dinner Pasternak, a Russian-Jewish fusion restaurant, just near Hayden and Andrea’s apartment. It was our 42nd wedding anniversary and great to be able to share it with some of the family, especially now that they are spread across the northern hemisphere.

It was a fitting end to our stay in Berlin. We had seen so much of the former Eastern Sector, that the Russian influenced cuisine seemed rather appropriate.

The next day we were on the flight back to Australia – our thirteen month adventure was at an end.

* I have just started to read Anna Funder’s ‘Stasiland’ Stories from Behind the Berlin Wall. It will be interesting to explore more of this dark period of Berlin’s past.

Back to Melbourne for ‘The Event’ (June 2015)

Thursday, July 2nd, 2015

The Sunday wedding cake with Sylvania koalas

While we were in Belize our son Evan informed us that he and Stephanie were going to get married.

While this was a surprise it wasn’t altogether a shock.

They wondered if we could come home for ‘The Event’, as it became known.

We immediately booked a flight from LA to Melbourne.

This was a whirlwind visit, in more ways than one.

It turned out to be not just one event but two. The actual wedding ceremony on Tuesday night, followed by a party the following Saturday night.

There were only twelve of us for the ceremony, plus the civil celebrant, Jenny Bahramis, a long time family friend.

The party on Saturday was at the Hares and Hyenas in Brunswick.

This gay and lesbian bookstore also doubles as a venue and was an ideal location for the second event.

Both of these events were fun, creative and unique, a lot like Ev and Steph.

The main events were dispersed with a number of smaller events.

All in all it was a very hectic time and we fell back onto the plane, ten days later, completely exhausted but very happy – especially for Evan and Stephanie.

Costa Rica – pura vida. (April/May 2015)

Sunday, June 7th, 2015


It’s only 250km from David, in Panama, to San José, in Costa Rica.

Our aircraft was a twin engined prop that seemed to feel the bumps every centimeter of the way.

The name of our hotel is about the worst play on words that I have ever encountered.

The ‘Sleep Inn’, apart from its atrocious name, isn’t such a bad pub. It’s situated in the heart of San José and very close to the walking street of Avenida Central.

Costa Rica is in the tropics and the rainy season is due to start, so every afternoon it rains.

Stupidly we forgot to take our umbrellas when we first went out walking.

We should have known better.

Europeans, in the form of Christopher Columbus, reached Costa Rica in 1502. In 1524, after, the indigenous people were conquered, Costa Rica was incorporated into the province of New Spain.

It remained under Spanish influence for the next 300 years.

With a total population of about 4.5 million, there are about 60,000 indigenous people in Costa Rica today. Antonio Saldaña, the last indigenous leader with any political authority, was assassinated in 1910.

It’s a prosperous country, by Central American standards, and consistently performs well in the United Nations Human Development Index.

This isn’t evident as you walk around San José as there seemed to be a lot of street people in the area near to our hotel. As over 25% of the population live in the capital, it’s probably to be expected.

The next day we went out walking around San José, this time with our umbrellas.

There is an abundance of street sculpture in the city and we encountered some of it on our walk.

The first, and most famous, is the Fat Lady sculpture ‘La Chola’ by Costa Rican artist Manuel Vargas, closely followed by Fernando Calvo’s ‘Farmers’

The Main Post office was an impressive building from the outside, with a very utilitarian interior.

The Catedral Metropolitana was originally built in 1802 but was replaced in 1871, after an earthquake, with a design by Eusebio Rodríguez. The design of the new church combines Greek Orthodox, Neoclassical and Baroque styles.

Inside the National Theatre or Teatro Nacional is the Alma du Café where we tried typical Costa Rican filtered coffee. You choose which blend you would like, from seven varieties, then it is served at the table with an individual filter for each cup.

There was a free tour of the Teatro Nacional which gave us a good insight into this slice of Europe in the heart of San José.

Architecturally it’s Neoclassical, part French, part Italian with touches of Masonic symbolism in the details.

Construction started in 1891, and it was opened in 1897. The first performance was Johann Wolfgang von Goethe’s Faust.

The building is used as a venue for state events. The sloping floor can be leveled, using winches, so important dinners and balls can be held.

Receptions for US presidents JFK and Barak Obama have been held in the Teatro Nacional.

While we were waiting for the tour of the theatre we did some people and pigeon watching in Plaza de la Cultura.

This social centre of San José is where people meet, children play and others just ‘hang out’

The Museos del Banco Central is a bunker style building under the Plaza de la Cultura. Built in the 1970s, it’s shaped like an inverted triangle, with three underground levels.

There in an excellent Anthropological exhibition, tracing the history and culture of the pre-Hispanic indigenous peoples of Costa Rica, from 500 BC to 1,500 AD. This is largely done through their highly developed craft of gold smithing.

There was also a small exhibition of local contemporary art.

Costa Rica’s main source of income isn’t coffee or bananas but Eco Tourism. They pride themselves on their sustainability in many areas, but it’s their nature sanctuaries and reserves that are their bread and butter.

The expression “pura vida” or pure life is widely used by the Ticos, or Costa Ricans, as they are very proud of their political freedom, economy and environmental credentials.

They have the largest number of foreign tourists of any Central American country.

They also have gambling.

Side by side with the eco sites are the casinos. This is the seedier side of San José and there were a number around our hotel. In fact the Sleep Inn had its own casino right next door.

We booked what was called a Combo Tour. This was a day tour to three locations, the Doka Coffee Plantation, Poás Volcano and the Lapaz Waterfall Gardens.

Max was our guide and he kept us on a very short leash.

The 112 year old Doka Coffee Plantation is 10,000 acres in size and had a turnover of $40,000,00. A far cry from the tiny Finca Dos Jefes Finca, in Boquete, Panama, that had 7 acres and needed the coffee tours to make money.

Doka, surprisingly, wasn’t organic, they were about making money and everything was on a grand scale.

The coffee at Dos Jefes Finca was much better.

The drive to the Poás Volcano was through a very fertile region with strawberry farms lining the roadside.

We walked to the volcano and were very lucky, as the clouds cleared and we could easily see the caldera and the lake inside the crater. There were clouds of steam erupting from the centre.

Poás is an active volcano that is 2,708 meters high and has erupted 39 times since 1828. It’s last major eruption was in 2009 when it was near the epicenter of a 6.1 magnitude earthquake that killed at least forty people.

We then walked for a further twenty minutes to Lake Botos which fills an inactive crater that last erupted in 7500 BC.

The entire area is surrounded by a cloud forest located within the Poás Volcano National Park.

Our last stop was the Lapaz Waterfall Gardens. This has over 28.327 Hectares of rain and cloud forests, waterfalls and wildlife. There are humming birds, butterflies, reptiles, monkeys and jungle cats.

It’s a bit Disney World but very well done and impeccably maintained.

Apparently all the birds in the park come from refuges, where they were rescued from poachers or donated by ‘collectors’

Manuel Antonio.

We took the shuttle bus from San José to Manuel Antonio.

Part way through our drive we stopped on a bridge overlooking the Rio Grande de Tácoles. There, sunning themselves on the muddy bank, were a group of rather large alligators.

This portion of our Costa Rican stay was as much about some R&R as it was about sightseeing.

So after finding an ATM, which involved a bus ride back to Quepos (there were none in Manuel Antonio) we had a walk on the local beach.

Then we had a drink at one of the beachside bars.

As we were sipping our beverage there was a large bang on the roof. Another dint in the corrugated iron, as a coconut plummeted from a nearby palm.

Australians, especially those who live near the beach, don’t really understand how lucky they are. This was a dark sand beach that in places almost turned to mud. The Pacific surf was pounding and the water was tepid but everyone, including us, had dirty feet. This beach is regarded as one of the gems of the Costa Rican Pacific coast.

Very few beaches that we have visited have fine, golden sand.

We were staying at the aptly named Jungle Beach Hotel, which was sitting in the jungle and overlooking the beach.

It’s claim to fame are the monkeys that apparently visit the hotel at breakfast time and in the evening.

In our first 24 hours the only fury animal we sited was the hotel’s pet rabbit.

There were huge swells during our stay, caused by storms off the New Zealand coast. The locals must have been tearing their hair out, as the beach was virtually closed, in fact it disappeared for a lot of the day.

Surf board, sun lounge and umbrella rentals were at a standstill.

This must have been doubly disappointing as we were there on a long weekend holiday and the place was packed.

Only the seasoned surfers were out on the breaks as the waves were three to four meters high.

I saw at least one broken board.

We booked a guided tour to the Manuel Antonio National Park.

Our hotel offered a tour that we thought was expensive – so we shopped around. We soon discovered that all the tours are the same price, there are just a lot of agents selling them.

It was suggested in Lonely Planet that seeing the park with a guide guarantees you will see things.

They were right.

Our guide, Marvin, would suddenly stop, set up his telescope and say: “There’s a Two Toed Sloth up there” And sure enough, there it was. As hard as I could try, I could not see it until it was pointed out to me.

He did the same thing with snakes, lizards, birds, monkeys and even spiders.

He was continually seeing things we couldn’t. I know it was his job but he was very good at it.

He was continually telling us stories about the wildlife. One we all liked related to the ‘pooping’ habits of sloths. Apparently they only come down from the trees once a week to poo. They can pass up to a third of their body weight and have to dislocate their coccyx in order to do it.

This obviously makes them very vulnerable to predators.

All the guides had high powered telescopes to view the birds, animals and insects in close-up.

They could be very cleverly used with a smart phone. All they did was push the lens of the phone up against the eye piece of the telescope and then zoom in on the image to get rid of the edges of the eye piece.

The telescope was equivalent to about a 500-600mm telephoto lens.

The results were remarkably good.

So much for all my expensive camera gear.

The Manuel Antonio National Park is the smallest in Costa Rica, only 1983 hectares, but one of the most popular.

The popularity not only comes from the flora and fauna, but the beaches that are in and near the park. It’s also a marine reserve with 55,000 hectares under protection.

The nature walk with Marvin only covered about 1.5km but took three hours.

We were constantly stopping and Marvin would conjure up an animal, seemingly out of thin air.

The walk took us to the end of the promontory and from there we could wander around.

We did so for another hour or so, but could never see what Marvin saw.

It was hot and the humidity was high so we walked back to town for a cool drink.

The tide was coming in and the waves were still large – but not a big as the previous days.

One night we walked up the hill to the restaurant El Avion.

The main claim to fame of El Avion is that the bar has been built inside a 1954 Fairchild C-123.

The aircraft was reportedly purchased by the US government in the ’80s for the Nicaraguan Contras. It never made it out of its hangar and was eventually purchased by the owner of the restaurant.

As well as the unique environment, the food was rather good.

On our last night a group of Howler Monkeys passed by the hotel. We had now seen the monkey trifecta in Manuel Antonio. White Faced, Squirrel and now the Howler.

They are called Howler Monkeys because of the sound they make. It’s similar to the screech of a Formula One engine – at full revs.

Panama, more than just the canal. (April 2015)

Thursday, June 4th, 2015


Our hotel in Panama City was pleasant enough but a little out of the way for our liking. It was neither in the new part nor the old part and we found that we had to do a lot of walking to get to the interesting places.

Reading the Lonely Planet we decided that the Casco Viejo, which is the old part of the city was just too dangerous – this was far from the truth.

We should have learnt from our experience staying in Raval, Barcelona. These older parts are where the best restaurants and the real soul of the city can be found.

On our first day we found ourselves gravitating to Casco Viejo, where we found a lively rooftop bar that overlooked both the old and new parts of Panama City.

A common theme in Panama was: “It’s broken”

The lift and printer in our hotel and the WiFi at a cafe at Multicentro Mall.

Even on the Hop-On-Hop-Off-Bus, sometimes the PA system worked and sometimes it didn’t.

There were two sections to the bus tour, the canal tour and then the original old city or Panamá Viejo tour. There is nothing in Panamá Viejo but ruins, as it was reduced to rubble by the pirate Henry Morgan in 1671.

We walked around the newest part of the city, an area full of high rise apartments, office blocks  and luxury hotels.

It was here that we discovered the Hard Rock Hotel. Now call me uneducated but I have never set foot inside a Hard Rock Cafe, let alone a Hard Rock Hotel.

The foyer was a cross between a rock venue, a casino and a pop culture museum. There were instruments, photos and wardrobe belonging to famous rock stars from the past and present.

We looked to see what the price of a room is at the Panama City Hard Rock Hotel and were shocked.

These rock aficionados must be rolling in it.

If the number of German luxury sedans are anything to go by, then Panama has more wealth than we have seen so far in the Caribbean, Mexico and Central America.

We have also seen more people exercising and more sports stores. If another sign of wealth is self esteem, then Panama City is doing well.

On Avenue Balboa we even discovered a community art project, which was a Mural for autism awareness. When communities can spend time and money on the needs of others, then there is a quality of life beyond survival.

Panama is all about ‘The Canal’ and no visit would be complete without a canal tour.

Our trip, on the Pacific Queen, started with a traffic jam and we nearly didn’t make it.

We asked reception at the hotel how long it would take to get to Isla Flamenco, where our boat was departing from.

Fifteen minutes, was his confident reply.

It took nearly 45 minutes, with Thea texting the tour organiser telling them we were on our way.

Apparently it takes that long every day.

Coming out of Panama City we passed two bridges, the first being the Bridge of the Americas, completed in 1962 and then the Centennial Bridge which is much newer, being completed in 2004.

The canal celebrated it’s centenary in 2014. It was built by the US, starting in 1904 and completed in 1914. Before the US the French attempted to build a canal in 1881. This failed due to engineering difficulties and the high mortality rate through tropical diseases.

The canal is 48 miles in length (77.1 km) and raises the ships by 85 feet (25.9 Meters) at each side of Lake Gatun. This is an artificial lake that provides water for the locks. The sea level is the same on both the Atlantic and Pacific sides. The reason for the locks is to cope with the tidal variations.

All the locks are gravity fed, there are no pumps. It only takes a relatively short time for 26,000,000 gallons to move from one lock to another.

In the morning large vessels travel northward, from the Pacific towards the Atlantic. They cross at Lake Gatun, where vessels that are coming from the Atlantic, pass to the Pacific in the afternoon.

Currently the canal can only take Panamax Class vessels. These are just smaller than the size of the locks – 110ft (33.528 Meters) wide and 1050ft (320.04 Meters) long, and 41ft (12.4968 Meters) deep.

There is a Panama Canal extension underway that will allow Mega Ships to pass through. It is estimated that this will double the income generated by the canal. The canal charges each vessel according to their size, so these larger ships will be able to generate greater income.

We were accompanied through the locks by a number of smaller vessels. One was first owned by J P Morgan, the American financier and then later acquired by the gangster Alfonse Capone.

I wonder how many of Big Al’s ‘colleagues’ ended up overboard.

After six and a quarter hours on the Pacific Queen we docked at Gamboa, on Lake Gatum.

We were then bused back to Isla Flamenco which only took 45 minutes.

The Panama Canal is not the fastest way to cross the Continental Divide, however it’s a lot faster than sailing around Cape Horn.

And I guess that was the point.

On Saturday we took a final walk into the old city – now we couldn’t stay away.

The waterfront isn’t that attractive when the tide’s out, with tidal mud flats, partly sunken boats and garbage.

We attempted to do the walking tour around Casco Viejo, that was suggested in the Hop-On-Hop-Off Bus brochure.

We did do it, but in reverse.

It was our last day and we had to get an early flight the following morning. Rather than do the walk and then eat, we did it the other way around.

We chose a restaurant that was near the end of the walk, so that’s where we started.

Casco Viejo is undergoing a major renovation. It was originally the top end of town then fell into a decline. It’s now starting to regain its former glory. Its here that the new city was established after Henry Morgan destroyed Panamá Viejo.

We met a friend from Australia who has just started a three months project in Panama. He is in the brewing industry and introduced us to La Rana Dorada. This is a Boutique Brewer who are making some rather nice beers.

Now the beauty of slow travel is that you have the time to re visit favourite spots.

La Rana Dorada definitely deserved a repeat visit.


We had another pleasant flight with Copa Airlines from Panama City to David, then hired a car and drove north to Boquete. This is a mountain area close to the Costa Rican border and known as the Valley of the Flowers.

The soil is rich and fertile with acres of flowers, fruit and coffee.

We had come for the coffee, as Boquete is regarded by many as the Nappa Valley of coffee and we planned to do a plantation tour.

It’s also home to a large expat community and the town has two distinctly different socioeconomic areas.

After we arrived we spent the afternoon driving around the surrounding hills. There are a number of loop roads that leave the town and then, inevitably, return.

As we were told It’s hard to get lost around Boquete.

The area has a decidedly non Panamanian feel about it. It’s more like the Swiss Alps in the tropics. The homes were large, many are timber with high pitched roofs and the pace was relaxed.

Admittedly it was Sunday when we arrived, but I had a feeling that Boquete never really built up a sweat.

Our experience at the Art Cafe on our first night was anything but inspiring.

We arrived in Boquete in late in the morning and this cafe seemed like a good place for a coffee.

The owner was a pleasant guy who showed us the menu and suggested that we return in the evening to have dinner.

Not knowing if the town, or the restaurants, were running on American or Panamanian time (Americans eat early, while Panamanians eat late) we turned up for dinner at 7pm.

Apart from one other diner, he was the only other customer than evening, the place was empty.

At 7:40 ‘mine host’ wished us good night and drove away. Immediately the staff started to pack up around us and finally, just before eight, the chef left.

We were still eating our main course, the restaurant was empty and the lights were out in the kitchen.

Then a strange thing happened, new customers started to turn up looking for a meal.

There were at least eight, many were locals and they all got turned away.

The owner, unfortunately I can’t remember his name, told us that he hoped to be able to sell the Art Cafe in a couple of years, for a good profit, and move on.

How sadly mistaken he is.

Another aspect of his business that I didn’t particularly like was that he only accepted ‘cash’ transactions. As we have seen in many places, this is a sure sign that he isn’t paying tax.

I am positive he would be the first to complain when the power went out or the roads needed repairing.

The next day we went looking to see the Cráter de Volcán Barú and then walk in the jungle.

We ended up having coffee.

The view of the volcano was constantly shrouded in heavy cloud. Then whenever we got near a walking track those clouds morphed into heavy tropical rain.

The drive was still spectacular with rich vegetation on all sides and steep, rocky escarpments rising out of the jungle.

The weather improved for our final day in Boquete.

We had booked a half day tour of a local coffee plantation. This was far less grand than the word ‘plantation’ indicates – it was more a hobby farm.

Finca Dos Jefes or The Farm With Two Bosses is only 7 acres and owned by an expat American, Rich Lipner. They are verified organic and very proud of the Arabica blend which has a tasting valuation of 91.

We were shown around the property by Gary Jackson, another American, and then given a rundown on how their coffee is grown, harvested, dried and blended. We were given an overview as to how it is tasted and what the tasters look for in a brew.

Cafés de la Luna is their brand and it has been described as having: “Undertones of dark chocolate, hints of walnuts and taints of vanilla”

It tasted like coffee to me.

If was explained to us that all coffee originally came from Ethiopia, a bit like the human race, and has spread around the world from there.

After roasting some coffee we then tasted two styles, one dark and the other a medium roast.

They were both very good.

These were served using a French Press, what we call a plunger.

Gary did also mention that espresso coffee has less caffeine than filtered or plunger coffee. This is plausible, considering the amount of coffee you have in an espresso is far smaller that in a regular coffee. Added to that is the fact that Robusta beans, used to make filtered coffee, have more caffeine than Arabica beans, which are used for an espresso.

The tour finished up with us all being offered a cold beer. Again this was good but I don’t understand why we were given a beer at a coffee tasting.

Like the Art Caffe, on our first night, Finca Dos Jefes only accepted cash and no receipt was given.

There seems to be a pattern here.

Boquete is also home to the world famous Geisha Coffee, which is the only coffee to have scored a perfect 100 from the international tasters. According to Gary, this coffee’s unique flavour comes from a combination of a perfect terroir and the jasmine bushes that were there before the Geisha Coffee trees were planted.

In the afternoon we went for a six kilometre walk to the Escondida Waterfall in the Volcano Baru National Park.

This is a beautiful rainforest area that has been unfortunately marred by the proliferation of water pipes, both steel and plastic, that remove mountain water from the waterfall and pipes it to the local farms and market gardens.

The actual waterfall was disappointing but the walk was very pleasant.

This area is also the home of the rare Quetzal, a strikingly coloured bird with red, green and gold plumage.

We thought we saw one, but we definitely did see the sign saying they were in the area.