Moustache - HANDLEBAR, PENCIL, HORSESHOE OR TOOTHBRUSH.

 

H&A’s from Wednesday May 22 to Tuesday May 28, 2024.

Most of our time was spent at H&A’s with a few walks down the hill into Granada. 

Over the course of our three months in Europe, we had planned a few side trips and needed to get ourselves sorted for these travels.

We arrived from Australia with two large cases and one small one.

However, after doing a bit of research, we realised that the best way to travel around Europe was to only take cabin baggage, that goes in the overhead lockers.

You save time checking in and disembarking and it’s cheaper than having to pay for hold luggage.

As we only had one small, cabin luggage size case we decided to buy a new one.

We then realised that this created other issues, like what you can carry in cabin luggage.

No sharp objects like scissors or the small tool kit that I always travel with.

There was a positive side to this, as I found out when I bought a set of nail clippers.

These were a small size, safe to carry and also much more efficient than the nail scissors that I had been using for years.

Each morning Hayden would head off early to take Brianna to school but in the afternoons I would often accompany him to pick her up.

One evening we were invited to see a judo exhibition at Brianna’s school. 

It was held in the open area, out the back of the school buildings, with all the kids, their teacher and some volunteer parents taking part.

What a laugh.

It was totally out of control but they did have fun, and I guess that’s the purpose.

On our trips into Granada, apart from shopping, we did some sightseeing and reacquainted ourselves with a city we knew rather well and had great memories of.

 

Tuesday May 28, 2024.

Flight from Granada, Spain, to Catania, Sicily, via Barcelona. 

Our first side trip was to Sicily.

We had been here once before, back in the Summer of 1975. We didn’t do too much exploring back in those days, so this was a good opportunity to really discover this southern Italian island, that sits off the toe of Italy.

Some might say that the Italians are trying to kick it out of the Mediterranean.

Once we arrived in Catania, on the east coast, we went straight to the Enterprise car hire counter and picked up our rental. It was a Fiat Panda, registration GM 690XY. 

We then drove to our hotel/guest house, Suite Inn Catania. 

Every door had a key pad that you had to use, however there was no staff to give us the numbers, except one very uninformed cleaner. 

Half the key pads didn’t work and she had to resort to the analog method and gave us a set of keys. 

After we had checked in, we returned to the car, only to discover that we had a parking ticket.

This was after we had been told that we could park, free of charge, in the street outside the hotel. 

It was now very obvious that the hotel staff didn’t have a clue.

Car rental companies charge a extra fee for handling any parking infringements. So once we realised we had a ticket, we went straight to the post office to pay.

There were three charges, one was a community fine and then a commission to the company who issued it, as well as a charge from the post office, who took our payment. 

Well, we are in Sicily, home of the Mafia. 

Once our debt was paid, we then found a parking ticket machine and paid for the car until we were due to leave in the morning.

Then we went for a stroll. 

First stop was in the square of the Palazzo Sangiuliano, for a well earned drink. 

And what should we encounter there but another protest supporting the Palestinians. 

This one was in front of the University, like so many of them around the world. 

Dinner was at Barrique Bistrot in Via Etnea. I had a real desire for a Seafood Pasta and got exact what I was craving for. 

It was one of the best pasta meals I’ve ever had. 

An Espresso at the end just capped off a wonderful meal. 

 

Wednesday May 29, 2024.

Catania to Taormina via Mount Etna, Italy. 

Breakfast was at a little cafe next door to our guesthouse. 

After a bit of interrogation, we realised that the hotel receptionist didn’t see the stuff-up she had made in the parking information she had provided.

This hotel certainly needs to spend some effort on staff training.

Fortunately there were no more parking tickets when we reached the car in the morning.

Our drive up the coast to Taormina was good but leaving Catania was a bit hairy. 

It had been a while since I had driven in Italy and I had forgotten how the drivers act.

Italian drivers seem to believe that it’s your obligation not to hit them, no matter how badly they drive.

On the way to Taormina we passed Mount Etna and decided we should take a closer look.

We went to the Mount Etna chairlift staging area, with the intention of buying a ticket to go to the viewing area, that was up the mountain.

When we found out it was going to be €50 each we decided against it. 

€50 is a lot to pay to just sit in the cloud and it did appear to be very cloudy up there. 

Mount Etna, at 3,369 metres high, is an active stratovolcano, that’s within the city area of Catania.

While doing some research for this blog, I discovered that Etna erupted on August 14, causing the Catania Airport to close down.

Lucky we weren’t visiting a few months later.

Parking in Taormina was on level 4 of a 7 level car park, which was on the very edge of the town.

To get to the town centre we took the lift up to level 7. As most of Taormina’s streets are pedestrian only, cars are really not welcome or needed within the town area.

After a bit of an uphill climb we found our hotel and checked into our room. 

The hotel manager was a far cry from our recent experience in Catania. She was well organised, helpful and gave an extensive list of things to do. 

The hotel also had some rather lovely artwork on the walls and sculpture on the sideboard.

Once we had settled in, we headed off to explore the town and ended up at Teatro Antico di Taormina, that was opened in 301AD.

This is an ancient Greco-­Roman theatre, that’s still used today and is found at the very end of Corso Umberto I, Taormina’s main walking street. 

The town of Taormina is very elevated so the views from Teatro Antico were spectacular, as were many others on our walk around.

I was astounded by the crowds of tourists both here and at Mount Etna – well it is the tourist season.

At the end of the day we finished up at Café Wunderbar for a drink. 

The view should have been spectacular, except the haze got in the way – again. 

We have been plagued with haze right from the time we arrived in Granada. 

Dinner was going to be at a restaurant suggested by our hotel manager. Unfortunately it was booked out, so we went next door to La Trattoria da Ugo, which wasn’t that bad. 

The food was very minimalist but tasty.

However the prices, especially for drinks, were half of what we paid at Café Wunderbar, earlier in the evening. 

After dinner we did book a table, for the following night, at the suggested place next door.

During dinner, at La Trattoria da Ugo, we got chatting to an American couple, from Washington, who were travelling in Europe on holidays. 

They were celebrating three years of marriage and we’re shocked to hear that we had recently celebrated our fiftieth. 

 

Thursday May 30, 2924.

Taormina, Italy. 

A bit of a sleep in this morning, then off to find breakfast. 

Most cafes and restaurants didn’t provide breakfast but we did find Vecchia Taormina which was very close to our hotel. 

The croissant was very fresh and the orange juice, made from Blood Oranges, was also very good. 

So was the Double Espresso that followed. 

After I tried ordering coffee in my extremely bad Italian, the waiter was keen to have a chat, realising we were foreigners.

He was very interested in where we came from and seemed well informed about the Italian migration to Melbourne at the end of WWII. 

We soon realised just how much the tourists loved Taormina. Everywhere is crowded, which is made worse by the invaders from the cruise ships moored at Giardini-Naxos, down on the coast.

In the afternoon we visited Parco Florence, a beautiful botanical garden perched on the side of the mountain.

Again the views were spectacular.

Then we walked down, the very steep staircase, to Mazzarò, the seaside town that sits beneath Taormina.

We had a typical Italian snack lunch of Bruschetta at Hotel Villa Bianca, Ristorante Principe and then took the cable car back up to Taormina. 

At €6 per person, it was a hell of a lot cheaper that the €50 they wanted for the one to Mount Etna. 

However the trip was a very short one at only 3 minutes. 

Once back in Taormina we had a slow walk, through the town, back to our hotel. 

A pre dinner drink at Bar Billy and Billy, which was much appreciated after all the climbing, even though it had been all down hill. 

Dinner was at Ristorante Malvasia, the restaurant suggested by our hotel manager, that we couldn’t get into last night but booked for tonight.

It was very artisanal and great.

So good in fact that I had to finish the meal with an Espresso. 

This is now the third night in a row that I have had an after dinner coffee. 

Good Italian food calls for good Italian coffee to follow.

 

Friday May 31, 2024.

Taormina to Siracusa, Italy. 

Yesterday we visited the local Decò Supermarket and got ourselves a few provisions for breakfast. 

So this morning we sat on our balcony and enjoyed the cool morning air. 

There was even a clear view of Mount Etna. 

The serenity was broken by some guy, in a nearby square, who wouldn’t stop talking – in a very loud voice. 

So annoying was he, that even one of the local dogs started to bark in protest. 

Even though coffee was supplied in the room, we went off in search of a barista made, Italian brew. 

We returned to Bar Billy and Billy for coffee. 

This was where we had a drink the night before. 

However the waiter ripped us of, charging €8 for two Double Espressos. 

That’s the most I think I have ever paid for coffee. 

The main drive for the day was on motorways, back down the coast to Siracusa, so it was a good time to come to grips with the six gears of the Panda. 

I have know idea what size engine this little Fiat has but I’m guessing it’s small, hence six gears. 

We stopped at Marzamemi for a light lunch. This was past our destination of Siracusa, so we had to back-track. 

The restaurant owner was very excited that we came from Melbourne. And, after taking our orders, returned wearing a slouch hat, complete with a Kangaroo on the front. This had been sent by his sister, who lives in Melbourne. 

We then drove to Siracusa and found our Airbnb. 

It was a full size apartment with everything except a washing machine – dam. 

Then I found it, but it proved to be more trouble than it was worth. 

We ran a 15 minute wash but it wouldn’t drain and there were no instructions that we could understand. 

Multiple texts messages to the owner still didn’t resolve the issue, so we rinsed and drained them by hand. 

Dinner was at a little street restaurant, not far from our accommodation. Osteria Terra Mia was another very rustic place, with most of the seating in the street. 

This wasn’t a problem as it was a balmy 25°C outside. 

Again I finished off the meal with an Espresso and again it was great. 

There was a very mixed clientele in the restaurant, Germans, English and a couple of Aussies. 

Plus a few very large Italian groups, who seemed to feel that they had the right to rearrange the entire seating layout of the restaurant. 

Plus there was one mangy cat who wandered from table to table looking for handouts. 

The only one’s who obliged were the Germans.  

 

Saturday June 1, 2024.

Siracusa, Italy. 

We were woken by the sounds of the neighbourhood, especially the street sweeping that was happening just outside our window. 

Breakfast was in-house again as we actually had a kitchen. 

The previous evening we had shopped at the local Maxistore Decò, which was just up the road. 

After our breakfast we walked down to the Island of Ortigia and had our morning coffee on the way at Cafe Story. 

It was then time to wander around the island, where we came across the Temple of Apollo, which was very close to the rather large market area. 

Another interesting discovery was Archimede Square with old and new architecture, that ranges from the Middle Ages to the 20th Century.

On the walk south we came across Syracuse Cathedral. The site is ancient, with the Greeks building a temple here, to celebrate the goddess Athena, in the 5th Century. The first Christian church wasn’t built here until the 7th Century.

The current cathedral was opened in 1753.

We had lunch at the FM Bar, where they had a list of local craft beer to choose from. This was the first craft beer I have had since I left Granada. 

I went for the Majaria Hefeweizen, which was perfect in the warm weather. 

It was here that we met our second couple of Aussie travellers. 

Ironically they were all originally from the UK. 

It was a slow walk to the Maniace Castle, the last feature on Ortigia Island. 

Then we walked back to the Apollo Temple, via the port area. 

It was too early for dinner, so we returned to Piazza del Duomo and then around the corner to the FM Bar. 

Good craft beer has that sort of pull. 

This time I had a Pillirina, American Pale Ale. 

Again it was very good. 

Messina is my favourite of the Italian mass beer offering but it was great to get back to the full flavour of craft. 

We had a relatively early dinner in the market area at, La Lenza, a seafood restaurant. 

When we came to the same area earlier in the day you couldn’t move.

Now it was a different story, all the stalls had packed up and just a couple of established restaurants remained open. 

It was still early when we left the restaurant to walk home to our rooms but on the way we walked past Il Birraio, a Craft Brewery bar. 

Bugger. 

We had a relatively early start in the morning and the last thing I needed was another beer. 

We did get chatting to a Czech woman and her German partner, who were enjoying a beverage out on the street. 

She was very well travelled and we shared a couple of travel stories. 

It had been a long day with many kilometres travelled.

My phone told me that I had walked 9 kilometres. 

Now 2 kilometres had been getting to and from the island, so the other 7 kilometres must have been just wandering around. 

 

Sunday June 2, 2024.

Siracusa, via Villa Romana del Casale to Agrigento, Italy. 

There is still an ongoing issue with Italian toilets, as I don’t think the sewerage system has been upgraded since Romans times.

You need to put your shitty toilet paper in the bin and not down the toilet. This is due to the fact that the sewerage system just can’t cope.

No wonder there are a lot of crappy smells. 

We packed up the apartment in order to checkout. 

As requested, we tied up all the plastic bags in the recycling bins. 

However there was so little in them that it seemed to defeat the whole principle of conservation. 

It was a longish, 2.5 hour, drive to Villa Romana del Casale, which was inland. 

We were here to see the famous Roman mosaics, that are regarded as rather special. 

Unfortunately on the way we had a little incident. 

A bird, of some variety but rather large, flew into the side of the car. There was a very big bang as it hit, then bounced off. 

I feared the worst, in regard to the damage it might have done, so once we arrived in Villa Romana del CasaleI I checked out the car and all was ok. 

Then we needed a coffee. 

Fortunately there was a group of food and souvenir stalls, just near the entrance and we could get a coffee there. 

It wasn’t bad either. 

Before we headed out to explore the mosaics, I needed a pee, which was probably a result of the coffee. 

There is an old saying.

“Here I sit, broken hearted, paid a penny and only farted. “

It wasn’t a penny for a pee but rather 50¢.

It was the first Sunday of the month, so admission to the site was free, so I didn’t fee that bad about paying for the toilet. 

Villa Romana del Casale is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with the villa and its artwork dating back to the early 4th Century AD.

It was originally the residence of a very wealthy Roman, whose name has long been lost, and probably designed as the headquarters of his large estate.

It has the most amazing collection mosaics, showing the world as they knew it at that time. It portrays myths, legends, sports and animals, from Africa and Egypt to India. 

There was too much history to absorb and take photos of, so in the end I bought a small book detailing everything. 

It was an amazing experience and many of the mosaics were stunning. 

We spent over 1.5 hours there and then headed for Agrigento, on the southern coast. This was our destination for the next two nights. 

That was another 1.5 hours of driving.

Our room was in Esseneto Rooms, a terraced house, in a narrow back street, just below the town centre. 

To get dinner it was a steep climb up to Agrigento, but at least it was down hill coming home. 

Parking near our rooms wasn’t easy but luckily I found a tight spot, on the street, about 50m from the entrance. 

I’m glad we got the Fiat Panda, if only for its size. 

We had a stunning view from our bedroom window, which showed temples, in the foreground and the Mediterranean Sea behind.

Apart from the view, our room also had some great photos of the temples below.

We walked up into town and went looking for a pre dinner drink. It was only 18:39 and far too early to eat.

After a bit of mucking around we found Bar Athenea 90. 

The menu indicated that they had a local IPA. As it turned out it was a local, Birrifico Dei Templi, American Pale Ale. 

It was very pleasant.

The atmosphere was great so we decided to stay for dinner. 

Then, just as we were about to order, a rather large religious procession passed by. 

It was long and so full of religious significance, but even our waiter couldn’t explain it. 

Well it was a Sunday and we were in Italy. 

It was a great meal with excellent service and very traditional Sicilian cuisine. 

On the way to dinner we came across a stunning memorial to the women who have been victims of violence. Erected in 2021, it consisted of a pair of very large red, high heeled shoes, sitting upon a stone pillar.

It certainly caught our attention.

Tomorrow we were going to visit the Valley on the Temples. 

This was going to be a complete change in culture, as it is Greek rather than Roman. 

 

Monday June 3, 2024.

Agrigento, Italy, with a side trip to Valley on the Temples. 

Breakfast was at the hotel, which made it an easy start to the day. 

My eyes lit up when I noticed a plate of croissants, but they were stuffed full of chocolate. 

What a bloody waste of a good pastry. 

We had to be out early, as Thea had made a booking for us to visit the Valley of the Temples, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, at 10:00hrs. 

This is a collection of Ancient Greek architecture that has been very well preserved. 

It was an interesting drive, especially trying to find the entrance. We had two GPS maps working for us but none of them were right. 

It was nowhere as well signed as our visit to the mosaics yesterday. 

The area has been occupied since the Bronze Age and settled as a Greek village since the 6th Century BC. 

We started to walk around the site and were drawn to the most complete temple in the valley, the Temple of Concordia. 

We then realised it was the one we could see from our bedroom window in the hotel. 

Over the last few days of touring, I have discovered two things that I hate. 

Large tour groups and people taking selfies, especially when they get in my way of taking a ‘real photographs’. 

We could have taken the shuttle bus or even hired a scooter but decided to walk. 

It was a long day of ‘Rockhopping’ as we used to call it but it was well worth it. 

Even in 30°C heat. 

We went right down to the Temple of the Dioskouroi, which was at the end of the site, and then turned back. 

Our return trip took us past the Temple of Concordia again. The sun had moved around and now there was good light on the back of the temple. 

We then had some lunch at the Doric Bar, which is where we had our coffee in the morning. 

Then it was a visit to our last temple, that was just near the exit. 

Temple of Juninho or Héra, dates from 450 to 440 BC and is in rather good condition – compared to some we have seen in other places. 

We then drove back to our rooms via the Turkish Steps. These are not man made but limestone cliffs that run into the Mediterranean. 

They have become a tourist attraction, after being featured in an episode of the Inspector Montalbano TV series.  

It was then back to the hotel with a brief detour, to a shopping complex, to buy a new travel adapter for our equipment. 

Our power board just stopped working and we were stuck with only one power outlet. 

After a bit of a rest in our rooms, we headed back up the hill to the town centre to look for a drink then dinner. 

After a bit of research we found Operá, a pub, restaurant and pizzeria. 

They also had their own range of craft beer. 

I chose an Operá Blonde Ale. At 5% it was fruity and refreshing, especially after all the walking in the heat. 

It was made for the restaurant by the Italian brewer Pitan.

At the end of our dinner, I didn’t have my usual espresso, but rather another beer. 

Good craft beer is harder to come by than good coffee in Italy. 

As you may have guessed, I do have a liking for good craft beer. In fact I have continually looked for craft beer bars and breweries, on our travels, all over the world.

Having walked nearly 8km, we arrived back at our hotel exhausted. 

It was time for bed, not beer. 

 

Tuesday June 4, 2024.

Agrigento to Palermo, Italy. 

Breakfast was again in the hotel.

And again I couldn’t find a plain croissant and had to settle for one stuffed with filling. 

This time it was a vanilla cream, at least it was better than chocolate. 

Once we checked out we were on the road to Palermo, on the north coast, via Corleone. This is the town made famous by the Godfather books, written by Mario Puzo and the film adaptation, directed by Francis Ford Coppola. 

After the last few days driving on Italian roads and ‘competing’ with Italian drivers I have come to one conclusion. 

They all think and drive like they are Riccardo Patrese, the very talented F1 driver from the 1990s’. 

However they are not that good and lack any talent.

It was then the final drive into Palermo. 

Firstly we dropped our bags off at the Hotel Mediterraneo and then we went and dropped off the car, we had done about 800km in Sicily. 

But before we did that, we had to fill the tank. 

Now there are two ways to get petrol in Sicily. Either you serve yourself or get someone to do it for you. 

The second option costs about ¢30 per litre more, so after watching carefully how it is done, we opted for self serve. 

We then got a taxi back to our hotel. At €25 I think we got ripped off as it was only about 8km. 

It was 16:30 by the time we got into our room, too late for lunch, so we went looking for a snack. 

No sooner did we start walking, than I noticed a sign. 

It was adverting the Palermo Craft Beer Festival from June 13-16. 

Bugger we are too early. 

It does look like the craft brew industry has taken off in Palermo and in Sicily in general. There seemed to be a number of bars and restaurants serving craft beer. 

We continued to walk around the city area, just to get a feel for the place, before doing it properly tomorrow. 

Then we found Le cuPolette, a craft beer bar reasonably close to our hotel.

They also had wine and, much to Thea’s delight a Prosecco, that was just ok, according to Thea. 

I had a 5% Farson’s IPA and it wasn’t too bad. 

Probably better than Thea’s bubbly. 

Then, after some research, I discovered that Farsons is a Maltese brewery.

Dinner was sitting outside at La Traviata and the weather had turned cooler but it was still rather mild. 

On the way to Palermo we didn’t get to stop in Corleone. However at dinner I did have a glass of red from that region and Thea had a white. 

As we were enjoying our dinner, I was suddenly reminded of the street hawkers. They appeared from nowhere and targeted each of the tables. 

The ones with kids were offered toys, while the couples were offered flowers. 

As has become the norm, I ordered an Espresso at the end of the meal. 

Unfortunately it came in a plastic cup. 

This was the only downside of the evening. 

 

Wednesday June 5, 2024.

Palermo, Italy. 

Again the hotel had breakfast included, so we wandered down, a bit late, to see what was on offer. 

The guy who seemed to be in charge of the proceedings scowled at us when we entered at 9:45. I think the close-off time might have been 10:00.

It was certainly a better offering than we had in Agrigento. 

And no chocolate croissants, just the proper sort. However the juice was nowhere a good as we have had the over the last few days. 

We headed off in search of the sites and stopped at the Ballaro Market. 

More a tourist attraction than a real market. Most of the food stalls has restaurants attached, which seems to be the way that things are headed these days. 

We then walked to the area around Chiesa di San Francesco Saverio. 

It was very poor and piles of junk lined the streets. 

Palermo is certainly the biggest city we have visited on this trip and the signs of poverty are everywhere. 

Beggars, dirty streets and so many buildings in very poor condition. 

We had a light lunch at Ristorante Fatima and afterwards a short walk to Palermo Cathedral. 

Built between 1169 and 1185, it’s another UNESCO Site. 

There was an earlier church on the site that was founded by Pope Gregory, who died in 604 AD. but there is no record of his birth.

The church was later turned into a mosque by the Arabs, after their conquest of the city in the 9th Century. There is even a column remaining from this era, evident by a verse from the Qur’an that’s carved into it.

Then we headed back to our hotel and had a rest before the evening adventure. 

We returned to the area around Le cuPolette, the craft beer bar, as there was a better choice of local restaurants in the surrounding area. 

And I felt like another Farsons IPA. 

This part of Palermo seems to be for the locals and the prices reflect this. 

A pint of beer and, a rather large white wine was only €8 ($16). This would cost us $25 to $35 at home. 

Tomorrow we leave Sicily and have a long day’s travelling to get to Rhodes in Greece. 

This will be made a bit shorter by the fact that we gain an hour as we move into Greek time. 

 

Thursday June 6, 2024.

Palermo, Italy to Rhodes, Greece. 

After breakfast, that was again at the hotel, I had a bit of work to do. Then once done, we checked out and put our bags into storage. 

Our flight to Rhodes, in Greece, wasn’t till 15:10 hrs so we had some time to kill.

We used this time for a last look around Palermo, before we headed off. 

But first, a coffee.

This we had at Al Moretto, a coffee roaster that was just over the road from our hotel. 

As we were walking through the main ‘Old Town’ area I was reminded, again, of how poor the city is. 

There are so many buildings in disrepair. 

We then returned to Piazza Bellini and took a closer look at two of the very old Greek churches. 

The Church of San Cataldo, built around 1154 and the Church of St. Mary of the Admiral, built around 1143.

Interestingly, the Arab-Norman style Church of San Cataldo, was used as a post office in the 18th Century, before being restored in the 19th Century.

While the Church of St. Mary of the Admiral is in the Norman-Arab, Byzantine, and Baroque styles, it stands today as a celebration of the architectural styles that have developed through the centuries. It is enriched by various tastes in art, architecture and culture.

On the way back to the hotel we both had a Granita. 

Well, we can’t leave Italy without having had at least one. And, as normal, there was the accompanying ‘brain freeze’ that you always get eating nothing but flavoured ice.

We then got a taxi to the airport and took an age to get through security. 

We had asked at the hotel reception how much should we expect to pay for the cab. They thought €50 to €55 we ended up paying €60. 

I think the taxi drivers are the biggest crooks in Sicily – they must be controlled by the Mafia. 

The plane was over an hour late in leaving Palermo, so our stopover in Rome will be a lot shorter than planned. 

It was so full that a number of passengers had to check their luggage into the hold, as there wasn’t enough room in the overhead lockers. 

Fortunately we didn’t, so our bags stayed with us. This meant that we could go straight to our connecting flight to Athens. 

We grabbed a snack on arrival in Rome and went to our gate. 

We were now on an Aegean flight (Greek), having just come off an ITA Airways (Italian) one. 

This one was also late in leaving, so it’s going to be a long day. 

Boarding for our one hour flight from Athens to Rhodes went smoothly. 

I get the feeling this flight just might be on time. 

This was the first flight we have been on, since leaving Melbourne, that had spare seats. 

We had arranged to be pickup at the airport, by a taxi that was organised by the hotel. 

Let’s hope it’s also on time. 

The flight had barely reached altitude and then it started the decent. 

The cabin crew had just enough time to, very quickly, hand out some water and a chocolate biscuit. 

On disembarking the taxi was waiting and the whole process was very orderly. 

Even the drive to the hotel was smooth, as there was no honking horns, passing cars and reckless driving. 

Greek drivers are much more polite. 

 

Friday June 7, 2024.

Rhodes, Greece. 

The Aegean AirlIne magazine ‘Blue’ had an article about Rhodes. The headline read: ‘Rhodes: The island of Knights and legends,’

This sounds as it might be an interesting few days. 

As it was rather late when we got to bed, the previous night, a sleep in was required. 

This meant we missed breakfast at the hotel. So, we went next door to Gran Caffe. It was a bit like being in Nikkos in Oakleyoppolis or Oakleigh, for those who don’t know Melbourne. 

After a bit of time on the road, a clothes wash was in order. So, after asking at the hotel, we headed out to find The Express Laundry. 

They had a very good rating and would do a service wash, which was better than us hanging around waiting. 

This was going to take 1.5 hours so we walked down to the old town port area, which was close by. 

There we visited the Rhodes Windmills and Saint Nicholas Fortress, both were on the Mandraki Harbour waterfront. 

The windmills are regarded as one of the finest examples of medieval Greek technology. 

The Saint Nicholas Fortress stands guard at the harbour entrance and was built between 1460 and 1467. The port entrance is also guarded by statues of a Deer and Doe. 

We visited them from both sides to get a better perspective. 

We popped in for a cool one around lunchtime, but didn’t feel like eating, as breakfast was so late. 

I had some work and Thea had some bookkeeping to do so we retreated indoors for the afternoon, where it was a lot cooler. 

It was now 35°C outside. 

Later in the afternoon we headed out again. It was still a warm 32°C but much more bearable. 

After booking a rental car for Sunday, we headed to the Palace of the Grand Master of the Knights of Rhodes, which led to the old town. 

Built in the 7th Century it is one of the few examples of Gothic architecture in Greece.

It was now time for our evening drink and what a surprise, I discovered Karoathos Cafe. 

They had a Greek craft beer collection on offer. 

I do enjoy a Hefeweizen on a hot day, so went for the Craft Weiss from an Athens Microbrewery. 

Very refreshing. 

I did go a little overboard and then had a Jasmine IPA from Strange Brew also from Athens. 

The one thing that has struck both Thea and me, is the difference between Italy and Greece. 

The Greeks are just calmer and nowhere near as stressed as the Italians. 

This has been evident in so many areas. 

The airline flights, the service in restaurants, the road manners and just the general organisation. 

Once we left the old town, we walked back to the area near our hotel, because it wasn’t so touristy. 

Then we went to Divan, a street restaurant that was close by, for dinner. 

The food was good but a bit slow. This was due to a big group, who had just ordered as we arrived. 

So much for avoiding the tourists.  

 

Saturday June 8, 2024.

Rhodes, Greece. 

Breakfast was at the hotel today, as we managed to get up and ready in time. 

The intention was to have another day of sight seeing and a bit of shopping, but that was after a coffee. 

However I did want to try and get a car phone holder, as there was no GPS in tomorrow’s rental car. 

As it happened, just over the road from the coffee shop was a ‘€1 Shop’. 

They might just have one. 

Ironically we have $2 Shops in Australia, so I guess €1 equals $2 in Europe. 

It was nothing like our $2 Shops and just full of tourist junk. 

We did eventually find a shop that had phone attachments and got one there. 

The woman who served us turned out to have grown up in Melbourne as a young girl and she did have quite an Aussie accent. 

It was priced at €17 but told me I could have it for €10. 

We then undertook some sightseeing and bought a museum pass that gave us four venues to visit.

First the Muslim Library of Hafiz, built in 1793 and then the Archaeological Museum of Rhodes.

The Archaeological Museum had all their artefacts in rooms on the first level – some dating back to 800BC.

It was warming up, so we went looking for lunch and a cool drink. 

As it happened Beerokouto, a Craft Beer pub, was just near the museum. 

We had to try it, as it was mentioned in ‘Blue’, the Aegean Airlines magazine. 

Accompanying our Greek Salad and Sourdough Toast was a herb we had never tasted before. 

It was called Descurainia Sophia or just Sophia. It had a sweet yet rustic taste and is grown in Crete. 

Beerokouto had a huge selection of draft and bottled beers. 

I again had a Jasmine IPA from Strange Brew. However this one was a draft and an improvement on the bottled one from last night.  

They also had beer mats, something I’d not seen on our travels so far. 

I asked if they had any to spare and our very obliging waitress produced a handful from their store. 

All brand new. 

After lunch the barman very proudly pointed out a beer tap with an Australian IPA and gave us a taste. 

It was great and we decided we must return again before we left. 

Next on our cultural travels was the Palace of the Grand Master of the Knights of Rhodes. 

It was vast.

The huge spaces, where the Knights could congregate, were in total contrast to their tiny living areas. 

This Medieval castle, built in the Gothic style and started in the 7th Century, was severely damaged in 1856. This was due to an explosion in a gunpowder magazine that was caused by lightening.

The castle was turned into a museum in 1948 and today is one of the main tourist attractions of Rhodes

At around 17:00 hrs we returned to our hotel for a rest. 

We had done a lot today, especially in the heat. It was now only low 30°Cs, compared to yesterday’s 35°C but still warm. 

Once it was a bit cooler we headed out again to find some dinner. 

I certainly didn’t feel like much having had a largish lunch at Beerokouto. 

As we left the hotel, we asked where the nearest post box was. 

“At the Post Office” was the reply. 

Now it appears that they don’t have street post boxes, just those at post offices and the nearest one was down near the port area. 

When we got there it was shut, no, in fact, it was closed down. 

The postal system, world wide, is in crisis as people just aren’t sending mail. 

Pity about the poor tourist who just wants to send a post card. 

Once done, not finding the post boxes, we went looking for dinner.

We ended up at a rather strange amalgamation of businesses. 

One serving the booze, another cooked meats, another pizza and a final one that did desert. Kotzachritsou Mi was the name on our receipt but certainly not out the front. 

I finished my meal with a Greek Coffee. 

Now, in the past, I have always had them ‘sweet’ but I decided to have this one without sugar. 

Wrong – the sugar ads to the flavour and makes it uniquely Greek. 

Without it, it’s just a coffee, with a thick sludge of ground beans at the bottom. 

Overall it wasn’t a bad meal and suited what we needed after a long day of sight seeing. 

We needed a relatively early night, as tomorrow we are on the road, in a hire car, to explore the island. 

 

Sunday June 9, 2024.

Rhodes, Greece, with a drive around the island. 

It was an early breakfast today, then we picked up the Butterfly Rental at 9:00 hrs. 

After a very thorough briefing on the Peugeot 108, POX 89 69, we hit the road. 

Or first stop was down the eastern coastal road to Lindos. This is both an archaeological site and a fishing village, that was first settled in about the 10th century BC.

The drive to Lindos was a real contrast to driving in Italy, as I have already harped on about.

After we found out where to park and paid the €7 fee we climbed up to the Lindos Acropolis. 

We seemed to get lost leaving the village and missed the main walking path. We then had to use the Donkey Path, which was rather uncomfortable and only really suited to the donkeys, not us. 

However we did descend on the Human one, which was much easier and naturally peppered with ‘opportunities to buy’ along the way.

Once we reached the Acropolis we used the ‘Mexican step method’ to climb up, as there were countless, very steep, steps.

This method consists of climbing the steps diagonally, criss-crossing as you ascend, thus reducing their angle of steepness.

This was first shown to us in Mexico, when we were climbing the Mayan Temples.

In classical times the Acropolis of Lindos was dominated by the temple to Athena Lindia, which was built around 300BC.

During the Hellenistic and Roman times more buildings were added. Then in the 14th Century AD they were overlaid by the fortress, that was built there by the Knights of St John, to defend the island from the Ottomans.

After all the climbing we got back on the road and headed to the Valley of the Butterflies. 

Now I understand where the car rental company name comes from.

It was a great drive through the centre of Rhodes, with great coastal views along the way.

In the valley it was much cooler than in Lindos and only about 30°C. 

The environment was in total contrast to where we had been.

Everything was natural and green. 

There were certainly many Butterflies to be seen and this was only the start of the season.

There were also waterfalls, streams, with crabs, and deep lush undergrowth everywhere.

We then drove back to Rhodes, via the west coast road. 

Once back into the city we just meandered around and then finally got the car back at about 17:00hrs. 

As far as dealing with the rental company, this was one of the best ones I have ever had. It was simple, easy to follow and they didn’t seem to be hiding things or adding on things you really didn’t need. 

Once the car was returned and they had checked there was no damage and the petrol level was where it needed to be, they just ripped up the contract and said goodbye. 

We had done 127km, and it was a very comfortable drive, that really only covered half the island. 

But we had been assured that this was the half worth seeing.

It was then a refreshing drink at the Top 3 Pub, which isn’t far from our hotel. 

I must admit a cold beer on a hot day is one of the best ways to refresh the system. 

I have found the Weißbier is great in hot weather, so I had an Erdinger. 

It was a great day with the car and so less stressful than the madness of Italy. 

I have yet another new found admiration for the Greeks.   

On our tours around Sicily and Rhodes, I have noticed how much ‘Ink’ people are wearing. 

To reinforce this observation there are at least three tattoo parlours just near our hotel. 

The tatts aren’t just restricted to young people. There are many who are in their mid fifties and sixties who are also well inked up. 

Tomorrow is a more casual day and our last full day on Rhodes. 

We will try and use up the other venues in our Museum tickets. We have two left – we were give four in total. 

The weather forecast is for a pleasant 29°C, so a lot easier to get around. 

We found Au Bon Bistrot for dinner. 

This was described as a restaurant that specialises in true Greek cuisine, which was just what we were looking for. 

The only downside is that they are into cats, which is evident in their logo and the fact that their Google Maps listing boasts lots of them. 

This was very true, as the place was surrounded with them. 

Despite the pussies the meal was great.

We had lamb, without the fries, but rather pita bread and all with a great Greek Salad. 

Perfect Greek – as we know it. 

It was such a wonderful day and night that we felt we needed a nightcap, so returned to Top 3 Pub. 

There I had a Brewdog Punk IPA – one of my favourites. 

 

Monday June 10, 2024.

Rhodes, Greece. 

Lazy start to the day as we didn’t have a lot planned. 

This meant breakfast next door, as our hotel breakfast finishes early. 

Well, too early for us. 

It was a toss up as to whether we would take the bus, or get a taxi, to the airport tomorrow. 

The hotel receptionist didn’t paint a bright picture regarding the bus.

In the end we said, “bugger it” and arranged to get a taxi. 

Rhodes is a tourist town and that is very evident by the number aircraft that are coming in to land and taking off again. 

The sightseeing destination for the day was firstly, Our Lady of the Castle. This Greek Orthodox church was first constructed around 11th Century AD.

It was then converted to a Roman Catholic church, after the capture of Rhodes by the Knights Hospitaller. It was then remodelled in the first half of the 14th century.

Inside was an amazing collection of Portable Icons and Worship art, from Greek Orthodox Churches, dated from the 14th to 18th Centuries. 

Next was the Decorative Arts Museum, where no photos are allowed. I suspect this is a private collection and not part of the government. 

These were the last two venues of our €10 ticket. 

All worth it except for the last one and it’s selfish, no photo, policy. 

There is concern, world wide, that tourism is taking over and ruining the lives of the locals. 

I have to agree. 

In the Old Town of Rhodes and even in the area where we are staying, there seems to be very little for the locals. 

There appears to be no places for them to buy food, with all the markets just selling souvenirs and everything else is dedicated and priced for the visitor. 

Most places don’t have prices on their goods, that’s up for negotiation and that depends on where you come from. 

I’m sure that if you are local, it might be a bit cheaper.

Lunch was meant to be just an ice cream but they saw us coming. 

Thea asked for a double scoop, each one of a different flavour. We finished up getting two scoops of each flavour – four scoops not two.

We paid for it in two ways.

Firstly price and secondly, because there was so much, it melted in the heat before we had a chance to finish it. 

There was far too much anyway. 

After a bit more meandering we headed back to our hotel. 

We just needed escape from the heat and that was the best place to do it. 

We intended to return into the Old Town and revisit Beerokouto, the craft brew pub for dinner. However as we were wandering around during the day, we walked past and noticed they were closed. 

Monday is the only day in the week they are not open. 

And guess what day it was? 

We went down to the port area for a drink and yet again sat outside.

We ended up at Island Lipsi, a traditional Greek restaurant that was right next door to Beerokouto, 

The food was ok, but not great. 

We got chatting to an English couple and had a rather social night. 

I ended up with a Greek Coffee (sweet this time) and an Ouzo. 

Thea just had the Ouzo. 

Then we received a complimentary desert, which we really didn’t need, especially after all the ice cream at lunchtime.

We had it just the same. 

 

Tuesday June 11, 2024.

Rhodes to Athens, Greece. 

After our five days in Rhodes, I think that there are three things that stand out. 

Tattoos, Vaping and boob jobs.

Sorry four things, getting ripped off. 

This is evident everywhere and the government is one of the biggest perpetrators, charging a 22% tax on every item of food you consume. 

After breakfast at the hotel we prepared to get a cab to the airport. 

Athens has always been one of my favourite European cities, but we haven’t been here since 2012.

It was an easy 40 minute flight to Athens and getting a cab was also well organised at the airport. 

Negotiating with the taxi driver was a bit more complex. 

This was made even more difficult by the fact that they all want cash. 

That way there is no tax for them to pay. 

No wonder they try to cheat the system, when you consider what the system does to them.

The International Atene Hotel was the swishest we have stayed in so far on this trip. 

Small but well laid out rooms with everything you need. 

We arrived at exactly the same time as a large Asian tour group. 

There were two, very small, lifts to transport people to their rooms. 

We waited and when we finally got our turn, found our room and got settled in. 

Then it was time to check out the local area. 

It’s very hot in Athens, with the temperature around 39°C. I think we will be taking things rather easily, at least until it cools down a bit. 

First thing we needed to do was find a bank and get out some cash. 

The bloody taxi had taken it all. 

Banks were non existent and even ATMs were thin on the ground. 

While looking for ways to get cash I found Padre, a craft beer bar but they didn’t serve wine. As suggested by the owner, Thea went to a minimart, next door, and bought herself a small bottle of warm white wine. 

This bar was really set up to be a take away and they only served their beverages in plastic cups. 

How disappointing. 

I did whinge about having to drink out of plastic cups and was given the reason.

The owner only purchased the bar two years ago, as a take away business, and intended to make it full service once he took ownership. 

This, he later found out, was going to cost him €10,000, a price he didn’t want to pay. 

Yet another government rip-off.

They did have 10 craft beers on tap, which was the most I’d seen on our Italian and Greek trip, so far. 

There were no banks open, near us, in this part of Athens and very few ATMs. 

The reason is basically the area is too poor and the ATMs were continually being robbed. 

However we do feel rather safe in our accommodation, The International Atene Hotel, as it is right next to a rather large Cop Shop. 

Athens isn’t the city it once was.

Much of it is run down and there is graffiti everywhere, plus there are so many abandoned buildings.

When I first visited this capital of the Greek Empire, back in 1972, it was a vibrant city and so different to anywhere I had ever been. Even the Greek alphabet added to its uniqueness.

For dinner we found a Greek restaurant, To Aønvaïkóv (Established in 1932) it was just near Omonoia Square. 

It was still very hot outside and the inside was almost full, as they had air conditioning. However we did manage to get a table. 

The meal was good, as was the service and it didn’t cost a fortune. 

 

Wednesday June 12, 2024.

Athens , Greece. 

Breakfast was included, so we had it at the hotel. 

Again I had a bit of work to do and then we headed out. 

We were staying very near Omonoia Square and the Metro. So we caught the underground to the Acropolis Museum. 

It was hot again and the museum gave us some shade and of course, air conditioning. 

It’s an amazing museum.

We have been here before, not long after it opened, and it’s a great way to see the history of Greek culture, especially Athens. 

But before anything else we needed a coffee. 

There was no shortage of cafes but finding one that served from ceramics, not takeaway paper cups was a consideration. 

The cafe we found, Leonidas, was perfect. 

I had a Double Espresso and Thea had a Frappe or Greek style iced coffee. 

It even came with Biscotti – what a treat. 

We weren’t the only people hoping to avoid the heat in the museum. 

It was very crowded. 

From the moment we arrived in Athens, I noticed that there were more Asian tourists than we had seen in either Sicily or Rhodes. 

I guess Athens is a cultural hub with no beaches for sun baking. 

So much of the Acropolis is missing, stolen or destroyed. 

And religion is to blame in most cases, except the Elgin Marbles. 

The continual invasions of Greece seems to be all about gaining power and influence in the name of different gods. 

True, it was built in honour of a the god, Athena, but it shouldn’t have been harmed in the name of other gods. 

One of the tremendous features of the Athens Museum, is that you can look up and see the Acropolis, which dominates the skyline as it overlooks the city.

Next was Syntagma Square and then a walk around Monastiraki Square, with lunch at Καφενείο Η Ωραία Ελλάς, another very Greek restaurant. 

It was 16:30 hrs, so not really lunchtime. 

We did spend a long time in the museum and as it was so late, we only wanted something simple. 

A piece of Spinach Pie, or Spanakopita, shared between us, plus a wine and a beer.

This is all we needed. 

The waiter was ‘pissed off’ and thought we should be ordering far more. Then he had the cheek to ask for a tip at the end. 

After returning to the hotel and doing a bit more work we went out for dinner. 

It was now 20:00 hrs, so some time had passed since our very late lunch. 

We decided to return to To Aønvaïkóv, the restaurant we went to last night. 

Again the food and service was great and the price was reasonable. 

It was then back to the hotel, for a relatively early night, in preparation for our flight to Granada tomorrow. 

 

Thursday June 13, 2024.

Athens , Greece to Granada, Spain 

Breakfast was at the hotel, then we checked out and left our bags in storage. 

Again our flight wasn’t departing until mid afternoon, so there was time for a little more sightseeing before we departed.

We had a short walk down to the market area, which took about 15 minutes. 

However the temperature was already 31°C. 

Mokka for coffee, which is an institution in Athens and situated next to the market. 

It was established in 1923. 

The Varvakios Central Municipal Market is mainly for meat and fish with a few vegetables. There are also antique stalls near by.

Athens is a city, built on a city, built on a city and excavations are everywhere. 

We wandered around the perimeter of the ruins in Ethnikis Antistaseos Square. These were near the City Hall and included an old Greek road running through the centre.

It was then back to the hotel to collect our bags and get prepared for the train trip to the airport. 

It was now 37°C, so it will be a slow walk to the Metro with our bags. 

The Metro was very efficient, until it came to actually getting to the airport. 

The train, that indicated it was going there, dumped us off at Doukissis Plakentias, three stations before and we then had to wait 15 minutes until another train came along that would take us there. 

We weren’t the only ones who were confused, as there were many tourists standing around scratching their heads and wondering what went wrong.

Then, once we got to the airport, we still had to do the check in, as Thea hadn’t been able to do it online. 

The upside was they allowed us to put our luggage in the hold and there was no charge. 

Then we were checked through to Granada, which was also a bonus. Let’s just hope our bags are waiting for us when we arrive.   

Now we just have to endure the 3 hour flight to Barcelona. Then the 3 hour wait for the flight to Granada, which is 1 hour 35 minutes.

Our plane was 35 minutes late in leaving Athens, so it’s going to be a long day. 

On the flight from Athens to Barcelona I made an amazing discovery. Google Maps worked in my phone, while we were airborne. 

I could plot where we were and the direction we were taking. 

Vueling don’t provide you with much information about you flight, so this was very useful. 

My excitement was short lived, as it was only active when we were over land. In this case Sardinia. 

Once we landed in Barcelona we went looking for something to eat. 

Pans & Company offered a range of things, unfortunately it all came in disposables. 

We had no choice. 

As we sat, waiting to get the departure gate for our flight to Granada, I started to count the flights arriving and leaving the airport. 

They we averaging one a minute. 

That got me to thinking, how many people fly every day around the world. 

So I Googled it and the figure, believe it or not, was 6 million. 

When the departure gate was announced, it was about 30 metres from where we were sitting in the restaurant. 

How lucky is that.

The final journey of the day was from Granada airport to H&A’s. 

This is about a 30 minute drive and relatively easy, if you know the way. 

We got a taxi easily enough but then things turned awkward. 

When he spoke to us the cabby thought, because we were tourists, that he had an easy drive into the the city centre. 

Wrong. 

H&A’s is on the side of a hill, the same one the Alhambra is on. And it’s a very steep and windy road to get there. 

He freaked, when he realised what he had got himself into. 

We finally made it, with much reassurance from us that he was on the right track. 

July 18, 2022. Arnex-Sur-Orb, Switzerland, to Berlin, Germany. 

On the move again, this time back to Berlin by train. 

On the train, from Yverdon-les-Bains to Olten, there was a woman with a dreadful cough. We just hoped that it wasn’t Covid.

This train wasn’t very crowded, which meant we could keep our distance from the coughing woman.

However the train from Olten to Berlin was full and we had to wear a mask – yuk. 

It was a fast train and at some points we were travelling at 250kph but it didn’t seem like it. 

No sooner had we arrived in the capital, we were greeted by the welcoming call of the emergency sirens. 

The sirens are a very distinctive sound in Berlin, so much so that young Brianna can imitate them.

Dinner was at Lemke, a Berlin brewery very near our hotel. 

We had been there before. It’s a beer hall with good food and a variety of beers on tap. 

My favourite beer was a Hopfên Weisse, a Weizenbock IPA. At 7% it was a meal in itself. 

July 19, 2022. Berlin, Germany. 

H, A and B were back in Berlin from Rome and they are now starting to make plans to move to Granada, Spain, later in the year. 

To keep out of their way we are staying in the H4 hotel. It’s in a good location, midway between Hayden and Andrea’s place and the commercial area of Alexanderplatz. 

It’s also not far for us to walk to our favourite eating area near H and A. 

After checking into the hotel the previous night, our first task of the morning was battling the hotel internet.

We needed to get this sorted, as I had work to do and we also wanted to start planning the next stage of our journey.

In the afternoon we were out with Brianna for an ice cream and then some park time. This is always special and there is a range of playgrounds, nearby, that she enjoys.

Having visited Berlin many times since H and A moved there in 2015, we have noticed just how well this part of the city is set up for family apartment living.

Playgrounds and parks are everywhere and some apartment blocks, like H and A’s even have their own ‘child friendly’ space within the complex.

Plus, there seems to be acres of space for bikes – well, we are in Berlin and everyone rides one.

That night we had a family dinner at Metzer Eck, our favourite German restaurant, that’s not far from their apartment.

This is one of the oldest, family run restaurants in Prenzlauer Berg, dating back to 1913.

This was before the two World Wars and the division of Berlin, into East and West, after the second.

It has a very cozy interior, where you are surrounded by antiques and family heirlooms.

The food is traditional German cuisine, served with friendliness and warmth.

Surprisingly, given my dislike for potatoes, Bratkartoffelen is one of my favourite dishes.

This is simply roasted potatoes with fried Spec or pork pieces and roaster onion.

There is an abundance of very good Asian restaurants in the area as well, but we much prefer the beer halls and simple, homely, restaurants like Metzer Eck.

We can eat Asian food at home whenever we feel like it.

 

July 20, 2022. Berlin, Germany. 

It’s a scorcher today, with the temperature getting up to 38ºC. However in other parts of Europe it’s in the 40s.

Even Switzerland.

As I have previously mentioned countries like Germany, the United Kingdom and Switzerland are not built for these kind of temperatures. For one, no one has air conditioning, only heating.

Even the asphalt melts on the roads, as it’s not designed for the heat.

The cities are also much more crowded, with high density housing and narrow streets, that have little tree cover. 

Sadly Brau Factum, the craft beer hall, is in decline.

It was so close to our hotel, that I was looking forward to a pint of their excellent beer before dinner. 

Just like we did in 2019.

However now their hours are limited and the offering isn’t as extensive. 

Another victim of Covid19 I’m afraid. 

Dinner was at the iconic Hofbräu House, which is almost next door to our hotel, then a short walk down to the Spree River. 

It was still around 33°C, so no exertion was needed. 

July 21, 2022. Berlin, Germany. 

Thea needed to visit the doctor for more tests, to see if she was on the mend.

After her appointment in the morning, we had a walk through the Tiergarten to the Brandenburg Gate, while we waited for the outcome of the tests.

Late in the day we returned to get the results – great news, she was on the improve.

After that we had a celebratory drink at Kaschk, a coffee and craft beer bar serving Brlo. It also has good wine. 

And the wine was cold, unlike the offering from the Hofbrau House the previous night. 

It was then to Khushu, an Indian restaurant, for dinner. We had been here in 2019 and it was great. 

History repeated itself. 

July 22, 2022. Berlin, Germany. 

Now Thea had the all clear from the doctor, it was time to plan the next stage of our adventure. 

As we can only spend 90 days in Europe, we will now head to the United Kingdom. 

That night dinner was with H, A and B, this time at one of our favourite Thai restaurants, Anjoy. 

We do occasionally go to one of the numerous Asian restaurants in Berlin.

July 23, 2022. Berlin, Germany. 

It was a Saturday and H and A weren’t working, so after coffee at The Barn, our go to spot in Berlin, then the market and two playgrounds, we had lunch at H&A’s.

Then in the afternoon another coffee and two more playgrounds. 

Brianna loves her playgrounds.

The evening concluded with a light dinner at Schankhalle in Pfefferberg. 

We discovered this restaurant, bar and brew pub, that’s very close to Hayden and Andrea’s apartment, in 2019 – it was good then and still is. 

 

July 24, 2022. Berlin, Germany. 

Avocado on Toast at Kaffee Käthe for brunch.

We have been here many times before, as their take on this Aussie favourite is worth returning for.

Their coffee isn’t that bad either.

Then later in the afternoon, it was an Ice cream for Thea and a coffee for me. Then a slow walk down to the Spree and Museum Island.

There were still Ukrainian flags flying on many of the buildings, a constant reminder of Putin’s ‘Special Military Operation.’

It’s summer in Berlin and nothing seems to be open, especially the Craft Beer bars. 

So many of these places are privately owned and those owners go on holidays during, what they see as, the quiet period.

Pity about the poor tourists visiting Berlin.

That night we went to Tsomi, a Georgian restaurant, for dinner. We had passed this place a number of times and really wanted to try it.

Especially after visiting Georgia in 2014.

July 25, 2022. Berlin, Germany. 

Another warm day, this one in the mid thirties.

We spent most of it getting ready to move on Wednesday. 

There was clothes washing at the H and A Laundromat, followed by a playground visit with Brianna.

Late in the afternoon there were thunderstorms and heavy rain, with the temperature dropping.

That night we went to an Italian restaurant, near our hotel, and were given a table looking into the kitchen – we were very close.

It was like watching ‘Master Chef’ live, while having dinner. 

Normally we eat outside but we wanted to stay dry, so opted to move in and their wasn’t much space left, so that was the seat we were offered.

July 26, 2022. Berlin, Germany. 

It was a quiet day planning the next steps, then a park and playground excursion with Brianna in the afternoon.

Our last dinner, before heading to Britain for a couple of months, was at Hayden and Andrea’s.

July 13, 2022. Barcelona Spain to Arnex-Sur-Orb, Switzerland.

Another country today, this time to catch up with Denis, my mate in Switzerland. 

Denis had also missed the wedding in Italy, so this would be a good time to talk bullshit and relive old times. 

A common pastime of old farts. 

In the morning the lifts in our hotel in Gràcia weren’t working, so I asked to get someone to help us with the bags. 

When we got to the lift we discovered they were working again. 

The trip to the Barcelona airport and check-in was very smooth, as was the flight to Switzerland. 

Vueling performed well, even the disembarkation was handled in an orderly manner –  yet again. 

We found the railway station, within the airport, and booked our tickets. We weren’t due to catch the train until 14:05 hrs so we had some time. 

We then got some lunch. 

Two very small ham and cheese rolls and a glass of wine. 27SF or just over A$40.

Our short stay in Switzerland isn’t going to be cheap.

However we aren’t paying for accommodation, which will be a saving. 

 

July 14, 2022. Arnex-Sur-Orb, Switzerland.

After a chatty night with Denis we had a latish start to the day. 

Even Switzerland was feeling the heat of the European summer, so we weren’t about to exert ourselves too much. 

It’s so dry in Switzerland that they have imposed water restrictions. 

Who said that climate change is a hoax?

Afternoon tea at the Restaurant Chalet du Surchet, then we had a short walk, along the hilltop near the chalet. 

As you would expect from the Swiss countryside, the views were spectacular.

We then drove around the area to get a better look before heading home.

That night’s dinner was at The Toucan Restaurant. 

Located in an old farm building and offering local food and wine, this is an institution in Arnex and we have been there a number of times before. 

With the weather being so warm, we ate outside, in their large shaded terrace area, as did everyone else.

This is unusual but so is the climate at this time.

 

July 15, 2022. Arnex-Sur-Orb, Switzerland.

It was another unusually warm day in Switzerland.

Denis is a fan of art and we always seem to gravitate towards a museum or gallery when we stay with him.

Today was no exception and we decided to go to Lausanne to see an exhibition of Art Brut.

I won’t even try to explain what this art form is, but rather I’ll cheat and copy the the introduction that was on a poster near the entrance.

‘What is Art Brut?

Art Brut or Outsider Art, is made by self-taught people who often live on the margins of society, either as rebellious souls or as beings that are impervious to normative and collective values.

Among them are prisoners, residents from psychiatric hospitals, eccentrics, loners and outcasts whose creative expression exists for itself without any concern for public criticism or what other people might think.

They invent their own creative space, seeking neither recognition nor approval. 

Totally original in their chosen means and materials, utterly singular in their creative process, they produce works that are untainted by artistic tradition.’

As you would expect, from this description, the exhibition was somewhat of an eye-opener and very left field.

The term Art Brut was created by the French painter Jean Dubuffet (1901-1985).

He was also responsible for gifting the museum, that housed this exhibition, to the City of Lausanne.

It was opened in 1976.

Dubuffet also donated much of the art featured in the show.

We then drove to Lake Neuchatel (Newcastle) for an afternoon drink at Terrasse du Pécos. 

It was then a walk into Grandson, a beautiful village that was also on Lake Neuchatel, where we had another brief walk around.

 

July 16, 2022. Arnex-Sur-Orb, Switzerland.

While Australia has been going through a cold spell, the temperatures in Arnex have been in the 30’s.

The interesting thing about the type of heat that Europe is is currently experiencing, is that nowhere is designed to handle it.

All the homes, public buildings, restaurants and cafes have heating, not cooling.

Now the hot spell has spread to England and in some places the temperatures are expected to reach the 40’s. 

We spent the afternoon with a couple of Denis’s friends by Lac Léman, near Lausanne.

It was great to get views of the city from over the lake.

 

July 17, 2022. Arnex-Sur-Orb, Switzerland.

Rather than staying in Arnex during the day, we felt it was best to get into the mountains.

At least the temperatures were bearable there.

So the drive this afternoon was to Le Pont for a coffee.

Then on to Châtel (Altitude 1,432 m) for a walk to the viewpoint for a pre dinner snack, which included a rather tasty wheat beer, at Restaurant Châtel.

Denis is a real ‘tooth’ and always has been – it’s impossible to fill him up.

And now, the same can be said for Thea as well, who’s appetite certainly wasn’t abating due to her current medication.

We toured more local villages on the drive back to Arnex.

Over the years Denis has taken us through many of the villages around his home in Arnex and they all seem to have one or more of Martine’s relatives, the Morels, living in them.

I suggested to Denis that when the locals marry they need to get a DNA test, just to make sure they’re not marrying a cousin.

This was our last day in Switzerland, as we would be heading back to Berlin tomorrow.

 

The main reason we were in Berlin again was to catch up with Hayden, Andrea and young Brianna. 

We were there for Brianna’s birth in 2019 but Coronavirus (COVID-19) put a stop to any return travel. The other reason was the wedding of my mate Rob’s son Cam to Fran early in July.

This was planned to be in Rome in 2020 and had been postponed, again due to Covid.

The family had been invited to Rome for the celebrations and this was a great chance to get everyone together.

Our first three weeks was spent with H, A and B, with only this excursion to Große Wannsee.

Not having been to Berlin since 2019 we noticed a lot of difference. This was mainly due to the Russian invasion of Ukraine.

On a day trip into the city we were surprised to see that one side of Unter den Linden, the road that houses the Russian Embassy, was blocked off and guarded by German police and armoured vehicles.

There was clearly a fear that the embassy could be attacked by pro Ukrainian supporters.

Support for Ukraine was everywhere, with flags flying from many buildings, including public ones.

Another thing that surprised us was the German’s attitude to the Australian lockdown during the pandemic. They were shocked to hear how severe it had been and many felt that it was infringing on our ‘Human Rights.’

We did try to point out that it was for the benefit of the society as a whole and to many Australians that outweighs individual selfishness.

Another shock was the rise in the cost of living.

It was much more expensive to live here than it was back in 2019.

Even before we embarked on this trip, I had decided that architecture was something I’d missed. As we wandered around the streets of Berlin, I was richly rewarded with an abundance of architectural sights.

Just simple apartment buildings, that had survived WW2, were a delight to see again.

Also as a result of the pandemic, the government introduced a monthly €9 train ticket. This was designed to stop people using their cars and therefore valuable fuel. As far as I was concerned, this was the only positive to come out of the Ukrainian war.

June 12, 2022. Berlin to Große Wannsee, Germany.

Coming into Berlin we flew over Große Wannsee, a lake area to the south west. So we decided to visit it on the train and utilise our €9 monthly train ticket.

This was the only touristy style adventure undertaken during our first stay in Berlin.

There was a long sandy beach on the lake with small, two seater, beach seats and a tiny section for the nudies at one end. 

There was a €5.50 entry to the beach and it was crowded.

After visiting the beach on the lake we had lunch just near the entrance to the Berlin-Nikolassee Station. This station, built in 1909 and designed by Fritz Bräuning, is noted for it’s prominent Neo-Gothic entrance.

We then walked from Nikolassee to Schlachtensee. There you could swim and sun bake for free.

If you really needed to spend money, then you could hire a canoe or rowboat or go back to the Große Wannsee.

It was then back onto the train for our return trip to the city. 

 

Beermats, as we know them today, were developed by Friedrich Horn, a German printing and board mill company in 1880.

Before that they were originally developed, to not only absorb spills but to cover the beer and stop insects from drinking your precious ale.

A practice that can still come in handy today.

Once they were made from absorbent board and printable, they became an advertising tool.

As I have mention, in a previous blog, collecting beermats has become a hobby, as they remind me of where we have been and what beers were on offer.

I have noticed, over the time, that overseas beermats now have many marketing uses. They are a great way to get attention for a brand, raise issues and even to tell history.

The Scottish craft beer rebel, Brew-Dog, uses their mats to tell the story of their carbon neutral approach to brewing and also their 50/50 sharing of profits with their staff.

Something that may have been forced on them by the mis-adventures of their founder James Watt.

Budweiser Beer by Budvar, in the Czech Republic, tells the world that their beer is the original Budweiser, not that crap copy from the US

While Scapa Special, from Swannay Brewery, in the Orkney Islands, at the very north of Scotland, has taken a historic approach and featured the 1919 scuttling of the German fleet at Scarpa Flow.

Here in Australia, the availability of beermats seems to be in decline and certainly those that are around are not putting the medium to it’s best use.

Like any advertising, they cost money, but they are certainly an engaging marketing tool that can bring recall to the brand.

Have you ever watched a flock of seagulls when there is ‘human food’ to be had?

They may live in a community but it’s a community where the individual rules. 

They are self serving. 

They always put themselves above their cohort. 

If there is any chance that another gull might get to the food first, or even be in a better position to score, they take over. 

With this individualistic approach to life, I can’t help but see similarities with parts of the American culture. 

Many in the US put themselves above the community. They regard their own needs as more important than those of the group. 

The louder I squawk the more attention I get. 

This attitude seems to parallel a certain US president of recent times. 

This may seem a radical statement, however the result of the recent referendum proves it. Given that not one state voted in favour of indigenous recognition and only the ACT voted in favour. 

It’s not the average Australian that’s to blame but rather the Labour party and the ‘Yes’ Vote’s total lack of communication skills. 

They simply didn’t articulate the argument for the change. 

In contrast the Liberals and ‘No Voters’, understanding this failure, came up with a one line statement that grabbed people. 

‘If you don’t know, vote no.’

Politicians should understand that the average person needs simple explanations, not complex rhetoric. 

‘Joe’ or ‘Julie’ public don’t have the time or the inclination to wade through pro and con arguments.

They want it to be kept simple and that simply didn’t happen. 

To many, my headline that ‘Australians appear to be fundamentally racist’ might seem extreme and inflammatory but that’s how the world has viewed the result. 

The vast majority of the international press articles I have read, expressed a very negative response to the referendum’s outcome. 

For a nation that prides itself on it’s multiculturalism, this is a shocking result.

 

I found this notice above an old biscuit making machine at Brunettis, a restaurant and coffee house in Carlton.

If you read the copy, you will discover it’s all about Pietro Berto. Yes, the machine has a name. He immigrated to Australia, from Italy, in the mid 1950’s.

Now this was about the same time as many Italians came to Melbourne and settled in the Carlton area.

As well as bringing biscuit making machines, more importantly they introduced the Espresso machine to our way of life. And it was from there that Melbourne’s coffee culture was born.

This resulted in Melbourne being voted the World Coffee Capital in 2022.

Carlton has a rich Italian heritage, that is further brought to life by this charming snippet of history.

You will find the words for the notice here:

PART OF BRUNETTI’S HISTORY

Hello “Ciao”

My name is Pietro Berto, I was born in Vicenza Italy in the 1940’s.

At the age of 10 I travelled to Roma where I settled for a while and worked in Bar Santa Chiara, near the famous Pantheon. Here I helped make many delicious sweets, enjoyed by many tourists and locals.

At the age of 16, looking for new horizons and wanting to share my skills, I travelled thousands of miles by ship and migrated to Melbourne, Australia. I worked in various “Pasticcerie” in Melbourne, but finally settled here at Brunetti. I have been responsible for all the delicious almond biscuits you have enjoyed over the last 30 years.

I am now in my 70’s and have recently retired, but don’t worry I have passed on all my recipes and skills to my son, Pietro Jr. who will continue my legacy. Between you and I, the young generation are excellent in many things, but they just lack the toughness of us old guys.

P.S I love having my photo taken so #brunettiselfie and I can share it with all my friends!

Also don’t forget to try Pietro Jnr’s Biscuits!

On Tuesday February 8th, 2022, the composer John Williams turned 90.

Now that’s an incredible achievement within itself, however the amazing thing to come from William’s life was the legacy of movie soundtracks that he created, especially during the 1970s and 1980s.

Soundtracks that not only help us recall the movie but also the time in our lives that they were screened.

He also helped to immortalise some of the new directors who commissioned his music. George Lucas and Stephen Spielberg are just two.

In 2012, Spielberg stated that: “John Williams has been the single most significant contributor to my success as a filmmaker,”

The movies Star Wars, Jaws, Indiana Jones, Close Encounters of the Third Kind, Superman and E.T. The Extra Terrestrial defined a cinematic era.

Other movies, especially the James Bond series that started in the 1960s, used the then currently famous songwriters and performers to write and perform their theme songs. 

Goldfinger, 1964 and Diamonds Are Forever, 1971 are both by Shirley Bassey. Live and Let Die, 1973 by Paul and Linda McCartney and The Spy Who Loved Me, 1977 by Carly Simon, are some I recall.

On reading about John William’s 90th birthday, I searched Spotify for a playlist.

That night, over dinner, we were transported back to another time in our lives.

It’s amazing where music can take you.