Parador de Carmona, Andalucia ES
Monday August 12, 2024.
Granada to Carmona, Spain.
On the morning we were leaving for our driving trip in Southern Spain and Portugal, we started the longish walk to get a coffee.
And would you believe it, our first choice cafe was open again. They had obviously only closed for the weekend.
We then caught an Uber to the Central Railway Station to pick up the car. There was a queue so we had a bit of a wait.
When we finally got the car I asked if it had a spare tyre.
The answer – no!
We have got Roadside Assist, so if the worst comes of it, I’ll be calling them.
It had screen for GPS but you needed to use your own phone to get the maps.
We set the map and headed off to Carmona.
Most of it was on Motorways, driving at 120km per hour.
As we approached the town we saw an amazing building perched on the side of a hill.
Sure enough it was our Paradore.
The hotel was commissioned in 1976 and built on the site of a 14th Century fortress and castle or Alcazar.
Much if the old building has been preserved.
The area has a real history.
People have lived here for over half a million years. The higher parts, where Carmona is situated, have been occupied since the Copper Age. During the Bronze Age, around 18,000 BC, the population grew even bigger.
We haven’t escaped the Granada heat yet, as it was still 38°C when we arrived. So we had a walk around the grounds, then went down, down, down to the pool area.
From there we could look up at the Parador.
Well it was built on the site of a fortress.
We had dinner ‘In house’ and it was great. However the proportions weren’t huge so I was ‘forced’ to have desert.
This was also excellent.
Eating here gave me a feeling of having been here before, or déjà vu.
But we are in Spain, not France.
It was probably our Parador experiences from 2007 and 2012.
The Elephant Statue, Roman Necropolis, Carmona ES
Tuesday August 13, 2024.
Carmona, Spain.
The temperature was a bit lower in the morning so we went wandering around the town of Carmona.
In San Fernando Square we found Bar Plaza.
After a bit of negotiation we manage to get a good coffee. It was the closest thing we have had yet to a Long Black.
The square was under reconstruction so a real mess. As was a lot of the town, which was not great for photos.
Having eaten in the Parador last night, we were hoping to eat in the town tonight.
Now we have to find somewhere.
We walked through the walled city and then down to the Roman Amphitheatre and Necropolis.
The Necropolis was one of the best we’ve seen.
This Roman Necropolis was used between the 1st and 2nd centuries AD. In those days it was situated outside the city walls.
It contains a number of monumental tombs and crypts that were owned by high ranking Roman families.
The Tomb of the Elephant is one of the notable ones, with the elephant statue now situated inside the museum.
Also very interesting was the tomb of the family Sevilia.
They were obviously very wealthy people.
Even by the afternoon the temperature was only around 30°C, a lot cooler than Granada.
We were still hot and now hungry, after our rather long walk, so went off to find some lunch and a cool drink.
We came across Castaño, a small bar, cafe and restaurant. The food was simple, the staff friendly and the drinks cold.
It was then back to the hotel as it was now around 34°C.
We would head out again once the temperature had dropped.
We went out at 8:00pm but nobody was serving food yet.
Well, we are in Spain.
We had a drink in a bar and then went looking for food and again nothing.
So in frustration we walked back to the Parador and had dinner there.
Again the food was great.
I’m not sure why we looked elsewhere, other than to spread our spends around the town.
Dolmen de Soto de Trigueros (megalithic monument) near Huelva ES
Wednesday August 14, 2024.
Carmona, Spain to Villa Real Santo António, Portugal.
Breakfast was at the Parador, as we weren’t confident of getting any in town.
A bonus was that they served espresso coffee and it wasn’t that bad.
Today we are on the move again, this time to Portugal.
However we have given ourselves a bit of a detour, to Dolmen de Soto, another ancient burial site.
As Wikipedia describes it:
‘The Dolmen de Soto is a Neolithic subterranean structure in Trigueros, Andalucía, Spain. It is estimated it was built between 4,500 and 5,000 years ago and is one of about 200 neolithic ritual-burial sites in the province of Huelva.’
There was a bit of a drive to get to Dolmen de Soto, as it was out in the countryside, on farmland.
We used the freeway for most of the journey but the last bit was a challenge.
Google Maps got us there, whereas MapsME failed.
This is very unusual, as they are usually the most accurate.
We got to Villa Real Santo António in the middle of the afternoon.
It should have been later but there was a time change.
We are now on GMT.
Our Paradore or Pasada, as they are known in Portugal, was situated in the centre of town right on the square, Praça Marquês de Pombal.
Parking was an issue, so, once we’d checked in, we went and found a public parking area.
We will leave the car there until we check out on Friday.
The town is on the banks of the Rio Guadiana, which is the border between Spain and Portugal.
Villa Real Santo António was founded after the Lisbon earthquake of 1755. It used the same architectural and construction techniques that were employed in Lisbon after the quake.
We walked around for a while, as the temperature was much cooler, just 31°C.
It was kept even more pleasant by a cool breeze that came off the river.
In the back streets, near the square, we found Bistro Latté.
They had a selection of local Portuguese Craft Beers from Senescal.
I had a Royal IPA which was described on the bottle as: Lush and hoppy.
And it was.
After a bit of R&R time in our room we went out looking for dinner and ended up at A Casa Do Alexie Assado.
The food was good but the servings were far too big for us.
Marquês de Pombal statue in Vila Real de Santo António PT
Thursday August 15, 2024.
Villa Real Santo António, Portugal.
Breakfast was included with the Pasadas, so we ate in.
We had a full day at our disposal but didn’t really have any plans.
Most visitors were in Villa Real Santo António to go to the beach.
You could tell by their tans.
The most popular spot was a beach near Foz do Guadiana, a breakwater at the end of the Rio Guadiana.
On one side they sunbathed and the other they fished.
We had asked at reception about the best way to get there and were told that there is a tourist train.
It departed every 40 minutes, from a stop not far from our hotel.
Very convenient.
Not long after we arrived at the stop, and with only a few minutes until the next train departed, a guy turned up in a black Mercedes.
He started talking to us in Portuguese and produced a sign, also in Portuguese.
Basically the bus wasn’t operating today.
Bugger.
We weren’t far from the car and went and got it out.
I hadn’t intended to drive today but now things had changed.
When we got the ticket out to pay for the car park it didn’t seem to work. We took it to the office and when he scanned it, we were told that it had been paid.
Sure enough, we got out of the car park and it cost us nothing.
We then drove around the area, visiting the beach and fishing spots and returned to town.
By now it was lunchtime and we returned to the café that was part of our hotel.
Apart from the fact that they had a good choice, we also got a discount, as we are members of the Pasada Club.
After a bit of work and a siesta we returned to Latté for a pre dinner drink.
Thea would rather we hadn’t as she thought the waiter/boss was a Grumpy Bum.
However I couldn’t find anywhere else that served craft beer.
This time I had a Lagunitas IPA. This is a Californian brewery that also brews its beers in Belgian.
It was again very nice.
Thea was also happy, as Grumpy Bum wasn’t around.
We then went in search of somewhere for dinner and ended up at Monumental Seafood, a restaurant in Praça Marquês de Pombal, the town square.
The boss was another Grumpy Bum.
I guess this time in August is rather stressful for anyone in hospitality.
The Grand Guadiana Hotel, Vila Real de Santo António PT
Friday August 16, 2024.
Villa Real Santo António to Beja, Portugal.
After breakfast, again at the hotel, we got on the road to Beja.
The car was starting to get low on fuel so I went looking for a petrol station.
There was one on the way out of Vila Real de Santo António but it didn’t display any prices.
While we were on the road there were no petrol stations to be seen.
It was only when we got lost, in a tiny village, that I saw a sign. We followed it and sure enough it was there.
It only had two pumps and was a pay as you go, self service.
We just put enough fuel in the tank to get it above half full and were on our way again.
I don’t think I sighted another petrol station until we were nearly into Beja.
Getting to our accommodation, the Pousada de Säo Francisco, was easy and it had parking.
I even got a spot in the shade, which was great at it was now 37°C.
I don’t think the car will move for the next few days.
We were too early to check In so went and had a snack by the pool. Then in the evening, once it was cooler, we had a wander around the local area.
The Pousadas seem to go by at least two names.
The one that the hotel chain, who runs them, calls them and the name of the convent in which they are housed.
This one is called Hotel Pousada Convento Beja, while its historical name is Pousada de Säo Francisco. Which means that it is a hotel located in the old Convent of San Francisco, a restored 13th Century Franciscan Convent, in the centre of Beja.
That night dinner was at the hotel restaurant.
It wasn’t too bad but the head waiter was constantly trying to up-sell everything, a bit like the car rental companies.
Jorge Vieira Museum, Beja Castel PT
Saturday August 17, 2024.
Beja, Portugal.
It was a latish start to the day. Our breakfast wasn’t until after 9:00.
However that seemed to be the trend, as most people didn’t appear until after we arrived.
As part of our breakfast, we both had a Portuguese Tart.
Well, we are in Portugal after all.
Breakfast was included, as it is with all the Pousadas.
I then did a bit of housekeeping (washing) before we ventured out.
At Arroz Doce we had a great coffee.
Since our trip in 2022, we have always found that Portuguese coffee is consistently amongst the best in Europe.
As with the area of Granada where we last stayed, Vila Real de Santo António, in Beja, is not a big holiday resort. It caters for the locals not tourists.
Many of the cafes, restaurants and even some of the sights are closed for the Summer break.
We are here for three nights, so it’s going to be interesting to find a dinner spot tonight.
Another interesting thing about Beja, is that most places won’t accept payment by card, they only want cash.
The temperature was already 35°C and it was only 10:00.
It was a slow walk through the streets of Beja, looking for some of the sites we had highlighted to see.
So many of them were shut.
We got to Beja Castle around midday and found that it was shutting at 12:30hrs.
So was the the Museum Jorge Vieira, which is a contemporary art gallery, dedicated to the named artist.
As everything was now shut we went and had an early lunch.
Cantingo de Castelo, as the name suggests, was just opposite the castle, so we had a snack and a beer there.
Yes, even Thea had an ale.
A cold beer, on a hot day, is always very refreshing.
The location was also very pleasant, under the shadows of a large tree and beneath the castle walls.
Portugal has a rather large African community. This has been evident in the wait staff at so many places we have visited.
In Praça da Repuúlica or Republic Square, there is a very prominent Migrant Support Centre.
After lunch we returned to the castle grounds and then visited the Museum Jorge Vieira.
Jorge Vieira (1922-1998) was a Portugese Surrealist sculptor and considered one of the best during the 1950’s.
Between 1954 and 1956 he attended the Slade School of Fine Arts in London. There, both Henry Moore and Reg Butler were his teachers.
It was an amazingly small gallery with, what I’m guessing, is a very tiny example of his work.
However it was free.
The temperature in Baja was now 38°C, so we returned to the coolness of our hotel room.
Siesta time again.
When we went out to find some dinner the temperature was still 36°C.
I think we will be eating inside tonight.
Dinner was at a local restaurant in the middle of town.
It was quite good but didn’t have half of the things advertised on the menu.
When we asked for the bill we found that we could pay by card.
Most places, apart from our Pousada, only took cash.
The meal was only €40 (A$65) so very reasonable.
Red carnations are painted everywhere in Beja, remembering the end of fascism in Portugal.
Sunday August 18, 2024.
Beja, Portugal.
The temperature was only 23°C at breakfast time but was forecast to get up to 35°C.
I think we will do our exploring in the morning.
We went looking for a coffee first but found that the cafe we went to yesterday, Arroz Doce, was closed.
It is Sunday after all, so it was then over the street to Luiz da Rocha.
Next was the Visigothic Museum.
And, again, it was free entry.
This museum is set up in the Igreja de Santo Amaro Church, one of the oldest, still standing, buildings in Portugal. Some parts of the church date back to the 6th Century when it was a Visigoth temple.
Next was Santa Casa de Misericórdia de Beja or The Great Hospital of Our Lady of Piety, which was established in 1490.
Free entry again.
This was becoming a rather inexpensive day.
All around Beja is street art depicting red Carnations.
We wondered what they signified. Then we came across one with the words: ‘Beja Cidade Anti Fascista’ next to the Carnation.
The Carnation Revolution was a coup by military officers to overthrow the the authoritarian Estado Novo Government on April 25th. 1974.
The Carnation Revolution got its name from the fact that almost no shots were fired, and also from restaurant worker, Celeste Caeiro, who offered carnations to soldiers, when the population took to the streets to celebrate the end of the dictatorship.
The temperature was rising so we slowly walked back to the Pousada and had some lunch.
It was now 34°C, so we sought some shade under a leafy pergola.
Then it was back to our room while it was hot.
We had booked the hotel restaurant for dinner, as nothing seemed to be open on a Sunday.
Monday August 19, 2024.
Beja to Vila Viçosa, Portugal.
After breakfast we returned to Arroz Doce for coffee.
We were on the move again today to another Pousada. This one was in Vila Viçosa and only about one and a half hours away.
Thea wanted to buy buttons for the top she was knitting for Hayden and Andrea’s new baby.
Finding buttons in Portugal could be an interesting exercise.
The logical starting point was the Beja Retail Park, that was just out of town.
No buttons there.
We stopped for a bit of lunch, about 30 minutes from Vila Viçosa and there, next to a cafe, was a Chinese Two Dollar shop.
Sure enough, they had buttons.
We reached our Pousada right on 3pm, so were able to check in.
The Pousadas, like the Paradors, are all very similar.
Once you’ve been in one, you know your way around the next one.
It was again 37°C, so we decided to enjoy the cool of our room for a while.
We were staying in the Pousada Convento de Vila Viçosa, also named as Pousada D. João IV.
The Pousadas do seem to go by a few names.
The convent is now over 500 years old, being established in 1514.
It was a very rich convent, with many of the nuns coming from Portuguese Nobility.
Some of these nuns had private apartments and even brought along their maids.
It was turned into a Pousada in 1997.
At 7pm it was still 34°C but there was a cool breeze.
We had booked dinner at the Pousada restaurant, as we didn’t have time, or the inclination, to go in search of anywhere in town – especially in the heat.
That can wait until tomorrow.
Dinner at the Pousada was great, even though getting a good beer was difficult.
They don’t seem to have that right yet.
I had Black Pork with Potatoes and Sausage. This was grilled pork ribs, with the bone removed. That was accompanied by a slice of sausage, which was sandwiched between two slices of potato and then deep fried.
It may sound weird but it was great.
It all sat on a bed of Spinach.
It was one of the best meals I have had in a few days.
Thea had Lamb Chops with Mash – well Thea does love her Mash.
Next to us was an interesting couple with their 7 year old daughter.
She was one of the brightest kids I’ve ever met.
The mom was Polish, the stepfather Egyptian and the young girl spoke flawless English.
They lived in Lisbon.
She could name dates from history and animals from around the world, including Australia.
Statue of Duke João IV (1840) outside the Ducal Palace, Vila Viçosa, PT
Tuesday August 20, 2024.
Vila Viçosa, Portugal.
It was forecast to be a high of 38°C again today, so we decided to do our touring in the morning.
At breakfast it was only 24°C.
And, as expected, the complimentary breakfast was a repeat of the one we had at the Pousada in Beja.
Marble is everywhere in this hotel and there’s a reason.
Vila Viçosa is famous for its marble with more than 150 quarries in the area. So much so that you can actually take a tour of some of the quarries.
It’s called ‘Industrial Tourism’.
At 12:30pm the temperature was up to 32°C, real feel 36°C.
Time to find some shade.
We had a snack at A Fiborna, a small cafe near the castle and next to Craft BBS, a craft beer bar with a good line up of draught beer on tap.
We will definitely return there this evening for a pre dinner beverage.
We went looking for postcards to send to the grandkids, but there weren’t any.
This really isn’t a big tourist destination, so hence the lack of postcards or souvenirs.
In the middle of the afternoon we went to visit the Ducal Palace of Vila Viçosa.
When we arrived we were told that you could only see it as part of a group tour, the tour was only in Portuguese and no photos were allowed.
It was a very one dimensional visit, with nothing to recall it at the end.
We did wonder what the message was to the Portuguese speaking audience.
It was however, a magnificent palace, lavishly decorated and, obviously paid homage to the Portuguese Royal Family.
The palace was the home of the House of Braganza (1640–1910).
They were the last in line before their overthrow.
The Portuguese Monarchs ruled from 1139 until the creation of the Portuguese republic in 1910.
After our less than inspiring visit to the palace we returned to our Pousada, which was just next door.
It was still 37°C outside, so we would wait a bit before venturing out again.
At round 7pm we headed down to try Craft BBS.
It wasn’t just a craft beer bar, with 10 beers on tap, but also a craft gin bar with about 8 gins on tap.
Thea was very happy.
I had a Libata IPA Weissbeer, which was unfiltered and an interesting brew.
Thea had a Cicerone Classico.
Just around the corner was O Paco Duco Vila Vicosa, a restaurant that served big portions of ok food.
As in Spain, people don’t eat their evening meal until late and people were still arriving at 10:00pm.
Craft BBS (craft beer and gin), Vila Viçosa, PT
Wednesday August 21, 2024.
Vila Viçosa, Portugal to Zafra, Spain.
After another hotel breakfast we returned to Cafe A Fiborna, for our morning coffee.
Again payment was cash only but who could complain when our two, Double Espressos were only €1.80 (A$3).
And again they were great.
As we drove out of town Thea was still hunting for post cards, so we stopped in at the Tourist Office.
Even they didn’t have any.
I think Vila Viçosa is suffering.
Their marble industry is the backbone of the community and the desire for the stone may be in decline.
It’s a great area but tourism certainly isn’t on everyone’s mind in Vila Viçosa.
Off back into Spain again today.
With the time change we gained an hour and could check into our Parador at 3:00pm.
it was now 37°C, (Real feel 39°C) so we weren’t going anywhere for a while.
The Parador of Zafra is built within the Castle and Fort of Zafra.
Again there are huge open spaces within the hotel and our room was also spacious.
Being built in an old castle our ceiling was as high as the the room was wide.
We had a snack for lunch, as it was now 4:00pm.
This time change can really throw you.
The Spanish Paradores are a wonderful exercise in branding.
Everything carries their logo.
In the rooms, bed linen, towels, soaps, toilet paper and shampoos.
In the restaurant, crockery, glasses, serviettes, placemats and even condiments.
And in the bar, beermats which naturally were added to my collection.
In the evening when the temperature had cooled, a bit, we ventured out again.
At 6:45pm, the main square, near our Parador, was empty.
We started to just walk around, primarily looking for a place to have dinner.
Come 7:00pm people started to venture out.
All the restaurants were still empty but the bars started to come to life.
I did do a search for Craft Beer, but nothing came up.
Reading reports about the demise of the Craft Beer industry in Australia, and noting how few places serve it in Europe, I’m really concerned.
The big breweries seem to have achieved their goal and destroyed the small ones.
Down near Plaza de España we found a bar, Salon Romero, all they had was variations of Cruzcampo.
Unsurprisingly this is Spain’s number one brewery.
We then had dinner at Meraki, a restaurant in Plaza Grande. The food and outlook was great but the service poor.
You can’t have everything!
Paradore Zafra (1443) Alcazar de Los Duques de Feria, Zafra ES
Thursday August 22, 2024.
Zafra, Spain.
The Paradores don’t offer a complimentary breakfast, like the Pousadas in Portugal, so we went out.
Back in Plaza Grande, Thea had seen La Chamba, a Pasteleria, or pastry shop.
Perfect for a Croissant, Orange Juice and a coffee, our go to breakfast.
We wanted to explore our Parador, which is regarded as one of the main sights of Zafra.
The Ducal Palace of Zafra, the building that our Paradores was set in, was founded in 1443 and became a historical, artistic monument in 1931 and now belongs to the National Treasury.
It was only 34°C and not as hot as yesterday.
We went for some lunch at Salon Romero, where we had a drink last night.
Tapas was the order of the day but we ended up with far too much.
I watched as a table of four young men enjoyed a ‘long lunch’.
Then at around 4:00pm one of them left and, I guessed, returned to work.
It did remind me if my life in advertising in 70’s and 80’s.
Those were the days.
As part of our stay we get a complimentary drink in the hotel bar, so that’s where we will start our evening activities.
Just around the corner was Huerta Honda.
Surprisingly with that name it wasn’t Japanese but very traditional Spanish.
It was a local restaurant, so local in fact that it didn’t have an English menu.
They needed to send us an interpreter.
But it was ‘posh’ and most of the ladies were frocked up and they all carried handbags, just like QEII.
Again, the bar at Huerta Honda only had three draught beers on tap.
Even in your average Aussie country pub you will have twice that number.
It was a good meal and very simple. Also the service was far better than last night.
I won’t be forced to go onto Google and whinge.
Beautifully tiled pharmacy. The tiling was very traditional but done in 1990, Zafra ES
Friday August 23, 2024.
Zafra to Antequera, Spain.
Breakfast was back at Chamba, where we were yesterday.
Today we had Tomato on Toast.
It was very nice and like the Croissants from yesterday, the servings were huge.
We even got the order right for our coffee and had two, very good, Double Espresso’s.
Before departing for Antequera we had final walk around the old area if Zafra, where we came across a beautifully tiled pharmacy.
The tiling was very traditional but done in 1990.
Paradores usual have their check-outs at noon.
This really does give you some morning time to prepare and even do a little sightseeing.
We really did feel like Royalty staying in this ancient palace.
The locations are one of the real benefits to staying in the Paradores.
It was a 3 hour to get to Antequera and we arrived about 3:30pm. It was still hot, about 36°C, with very little breeze to ease the heat.
The town is north of Málaga and west of Granada, so very much inland.
This is the last stop before we return to Granada on Sunday.
The main town centre of Antequera is about a 25 minute walk from our Parador, so we won’t be venturing out just yet.
This Parador certainly breaks with the tradition of the ones we have stayed at recently. To start with, it’s modern and decorated in a very contemporary way.
As we walked into town, later in the afternoon, we were greeted by very loud music and lots of people, all dressed up.
Especially the ladies, who many of them, were wearing traditional flamenco costumes.
It was the Real Feirai or Royal Fair.
Everyone was out and either walking the streets or in the many bars that lined the main streets.
We chose a bar, Casa Pepe Fox.
The Personal face fan is alive and well and living in Spain, they were everywhere and mainly carried by the ladies
The temperature was now to 28°C but the ladies kept their fans active.
Another sign of the big brewery dominance is the lack of beer mats.
They don’t need to spend on marketing because they own the market.
Dinner was great at Casa Fox and it wasn’t expensive, only costing A$75.
I had pork that was very similar to what Hayden makes.
Mine was good, his is definitely better.
Real Feirai or Royal Fair in Antequera ES
Saturday August 24, 2024.
Antequera, Spain.
We walked into town to get breakfast and then explore the area.
This needed to be done before the temperature got too hot.
It was already 26°C and going to get up to 34°C.
Where we had breakfast was called La Canasta and it was at the front of a supermarket.
Even though the temperature was on the rise we walked up the hill to the Alcazaba de Antequera. This is an old Moorish fortress that was built over Roman ruins in the 14th Century. This was to counter the Christian advance that was coming from the north.
At the fort we got a Senior’s concession and an Audio Guide.
This was great, as we could take our time.
There was lots of climbing up and down stairs, exacerbated by the hot stone structure. The story was partly told through the voice of Prince Don Fernando, whose name appeared in the history books as Don Fernando of Antequera.
After clambering over the fort, for nearly two hours, we slowly descended the hill and went looking for a snack lunch.
Cafe Marengo looked ok and there was room inside. It wasn’t air conditioned but the fans kept it cooler.
Croquettes was my choice for the snack. I do love them and who knows when I’ll have them again.
At 3:30pm it was 36°C again, so time to retreat back to the Parador.
We will be eating in the Parador tonight as the city is getting crowded again and we need an early start tomorrow.
The Vuelta a España, the major Spanish bicycle race of the Summer, comes to Granada tomorrow.
It will be ending at the Alhambra and roads around Hayden and Andrea’ place might be closed.
We will now be dropping the car off earlier than planned.
Around the Parador de Antequera ES
Sunday August 25, 2024.
Antequera to Granada, Spain.
As mentioned it was an early start as we wanted to get to Granada before the Vuelta a España came through and disrupted the traffic.
It was just over one hour and most of it was on the motorway.
Enterprise Rentals was understaffed again so we just dropped off the car and returned the keys to the office.
We had travelled over 3,500 km in hire cars over the last three months, driving on both sides of the road.
Then we got a taxi to H&A’s and were there by just after 11:00am.
They had just finished breakfast when we arrived.
Around 5:30pm we looked out of the living room window to see the cyclists from the Vuelta pass.
They were a fair distance down, on the street below, bit to was two hot to climb don the hill.
They passed right by the apartment block that we stayed in, before this last adventure.
They seemed to come by in small groups not one large peloton.
I think they were feeling the 37°C Granada heat.
Coffee at Despiertoo, Granada ES
Monday August 26, 2024.
Granada, Spain.
Our task over the next two days was to look after Brianna.
Hayden and Andrea were back at work, so we needed to keep her out of their hair.
We took the number 9 bus into Granada and this in itself was an adventure for Brianna.
It was a downhill walk to get to the bus stop, which was good as the temperature was rising.
After coffee at Despiertoo, one of Hayden’s favourites, we went to Plaza de los Lobos, or Wolf Park.
Judging by the size of some of the dogs wandering around, I’m not surprised by the name.
We then asked Brianna what she would like to do next.
“Ice cream please” was the answer.
Heladería Dolcemasco, was only a few minutes away so we headed there.
It was just next to Trinity Square or Plaza de la Trinidad, so we went there to eat the ice cream in the shade.
It was now getting hotter and we took the 35 bus back up the hill, above H&A’s, which meant that we had only had to walk down.
You certainly don’t want to be walking uphill in these temperatures.
Feeding time for the lemurs at the BioDoma, Parques de las Ciencias (Science Park), Granada ES
Tuesday August 27, 2024.
Granada, Spain.
Today we took Brianna to the Granada Science Park, which is a member of the European Network of Science Centres.
It’s a large area, covering over 70,000 square metres and is divided into different scientific disciplines.
She seemed to enjoy herself but was overcome when we came across the Bio Domo, a section devoted to live animals, with a variety of different species.
There were fish, reptiles, birds and mammals. And much, to Brianna’s delight, a group of Ring Tailed Lemurs.
She has one at home called Pepe but had never seen a live one.
Pepe has been around for a long time and was originally given to Hayden in 2007.
He donated to a ‘Save the Lemur’ fund and then got Pepe in return for his contribution.
It was his travel companion on his many adventures.
After the park we returned to H&A’s and started to prepare ourselves for the flight home tomorrow.
It was going to be a long day.
Wednesday August 28, 2024.
Granada, Spain to Melbourne, Australia via Barcelona and Doha.
We had an early start to the trip home.
Up at 6:30am, Taxi to the airport at 7:30am.
“It’s been an absolute pleasure.”
This phrase, is spoken by the very English announcer on the Vueling flights we have taken on this trip.
It will be a lasting memory of this time in Europe.
As we flew into Barcelona, we figured it might be the last time we would hear it for a while.
There was a 5.5 hour layover in Barcelona, before we boarded our flight to Doha.
Plenty of time to check in and have some lunch.
It was then just over 6 hours to Doha.
Another layover in Doha, this one 3.5 hours.
Then it was the long flight back to Melbourne, 12.5 hours.
The schedule on the Qatar flight was a bit haphazard, as there were no real meal breaks and they seemed to want to keep us in the dark for most of the flight – literally, as the blinds had to remain closed.
Admittedly we were flying to the east and into the sun. And we had left Doha at 3:00am.
However there was no opportunity to get our body into the correct circadian rhythm.
They didn’t regulate the eating and sleeping times to allow us to settle into a Melbourne time zone. We will have to do that on home territory.
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Summer of 2024.
Part 5: Southern Spain and Portugal.
Parador de Carmona, Andalucia ES
Monday August 12, 2024.
Granada to Carmona, Spain.
On the morning we were leaving for our driving trip in Southern Spain and Portugal, we started the longish walk to get a coffee.
And would you believe it, our first choice cafe was open again. They had obviously only closed for the weekend.
We then caught an Uber to the Central Railway Station to pick up the car. There was a queue so we had a bit of a wait.
When we finally got the car I asked if it had a spare tyre.
The answer – no!
We have got Roadside Assist, so if the worst comes of it, I’ll be calling them.
It had screen for GPS but you needed to use your own phone to get the maps.
We set the map and headed off to Carmona.
Most of it was on Motorways, driving at 120km per hour.
As we approached the town we saw an amazing building perched on the side of a hill.
Sure enough it was our Paradore.
The hotel was commissioned in 1976 and built on the site of a 14th Century fortress and castle or Alcazar.
Much if the old building has been preserved.
The area has a real history.
People have lived here for over half a million years. The higher parts, where Carmona is situated, have been occupied since the Copper Age. During the Bronze Age, around 18,000 BC, the population grew even bigger.
We haven’t escaped the Granada heat yet, as it was still 38°C when we arrived. So we had a walk around the grounds, then went down, down, down to the pool area.
From there we could look up at the Parador.
Well it was built on the site of a fortress.
We had dinner ‘In house’ and it was great. However the proportions weren’t huge so I was ‘forced’ to have desert.
This was also excellent.
Eating here gave me a feeling of having been here before, or déjà vu.
But we are in Spain, not France.
It was probably our Parador experiences from 2007 and 2012.
The Elephant Statue, Roman Necropolis, Carmona ES
Tuesday August 13, 2024.
Carmona, Spain.
The temperature was a bit lower in the morning so we went wandering around the town of Carmona.
In San Fernando Square we found Bar Plaza.
After a bit of negotiation we manage to get a good coffee. It was the closest thing we have had yet to a Long Black.
The square was under reconstruction so a real mess. As was a lot of the town, which was not great for photos.
Having eaten in the Parador last night, we were hoping to eat in the town tonight.
Now we have to find somewhere.
We walked through the walled city and then down to the Roman Amphitheatre and Necropolis.
The Necropolis was one of the best we’ve seen.
This Roman Necropolis was used between the 1st and 2nd centuries AD. In those days it was situated outside the city walls.
It contains a number of monumental tombs and crypts that were owned by high ranking Roman families.
The Tomb of the Elephant is one of the notable ones, with the elephant statue now situated inside the museum.
Also very interesting was the tomb of the family Sevilia.
They were obviously very wealthy people.
Even by the afternoon the temperature was only around 30°C, a lot cooler than Granada.
We were still hot and now hungry, after our rather long walk, so went off to find some lunch and a cool drink.
We came across Castaño, a small bar, cafe and restaurant. The food was simple, the staff friendly and the drinks cold.
It was then back to the hotel as it was now around 34°C.
We would head out again once the temperature had dropped.
We went out at 8:00pm but nobody was serving food yet.
Well, we are in Spain.
We had a drink in a bar and then went looking for food and again nothing.
So in frustration we walked back to the Parador and had dinner there.
Again the food was great.
I’m not sure why we looked elsewhere, other than to spread our spends around the town.
Dolmen de Soto de Trigueros (megalithic monument) near Huelva ES
Wednesday August 14, 2024.
Carmona, Spain to Villa Real Santo António, Portugal.
Breakfast was at the Parador, as we weren’t confident of getting any in town.
A bonus was that they served espresso coffee and it wasn’t that bad.
Today we are on the move again, this time to Portugal.
However we have given ourselves a bit of a detour, to Dolmen de Soto, another ancient burial site.
As Wikipedia describes it:
‘The Dolmen de Soto is a Neolithic subterranean structure in Trigueros, Andalucía, Spain. It is estimated it was built between 4,500 and 5,000 years ago and is one of about 200 neolithic ritual-burial sites in the province of Huelva.’
There was a bit of a drive to get to Dolmen de Soto, as it was out in the countryside, on farmland.
We used the freeway for most of the journey but the last bit was a challenge.
Google Maps got us there, whereas MapsME failed.
This is very unusual, as they are usually the most accurate.
We got to Villa Real Santo António in the middle of the afternoon.
It should have been later but there was a time change.
We are now on GMT.
Our Paradore or Pasada, as they are known in Portugal, was situated in the centre of town right on the square, Praça Marquês de Pombal.
Parking was an issue, so, once we’d checked in, we went and found a public parking area.
We will leave the car there until we check out on Friday.
The town is on the banks of the Rio Guadiana, which is the border between Spain and Portugal.
Villa Real Santo António was founded after the Lisbon earthquake of 1755. It used the same architectural and construction techniques that were employed in Lisbon after the quake.
We walked around for a while, as the temperature was much cooler, just 31°C.
It was kept even more pleasant by a cool breeze that came off the river.
In the back streets, near the square, we found Bistro Latté.
They had a selection of local Portuguese Craft Beers from Senescal.
I had a Royal IPA which was described on the bottle as: Lush and hoppy.
And it was.
After a bit of R&R time in our room we went out looking for dinner and ended up at A Casa Do Alexie Assado.
The food was good but the servings were far too big for us.
Marquês de Pombal statue in Vila Real de Santo António PT
Thursday August 15, 2024.
Villa Real Santo António, Portugal.
Breakfast was included with the Pasadas, so we ate in.
We had a full day at our disposal but didn’t really have any plans.
Most visitors were in Villa Real Santo António to go to the beach.
You could tell by their tans.
The most popular spot was a beach near Foz do Guadiana, a breakwater at the end of the Rio Guadiana.
On one side they sunbathed and the other they fished.
We had asked at reception about the best way to get there and were told that there is a tourist train.
It departed every 40 minutes, from a stop not far from our hotel.
Very convenient.
Not long after we arrived at the stop, and with only a few minutes until the next train departed, a guy turned up in a black Mercedes.
He started talking to us in Portuguese and produced a sign, also in Portuguese.
Basically the bus wasn’t operating today.
Bugger.
We weren’t far from the car and went and got it out.
I hadn’t intended to drive today but now things had changed.
When we got the ticket out to pay for the car park it didn’t seem to work. We took it to the office and when he scanned it, we were told that it had been paid.
Sure enough, we got out of the car park and it cost us nothing.
We then drove around the area, visiting the beach and fishing spots and returned to town.
By now it was lunchtime and we returned to the café that was part of our hotel.
Apart from the fact that they had a good choice, we also got a discount, as we are members of the Pasada Club.
After a bit of work and a siesta we returned to Latté for a pre dinner drink.
Thea would rather we hadn’t as she thought the waiter/boss was a Grumpy Bum.
However I couldn’t find anywhere else that served craft beer.
This time I had a Lagunitas IPA. This is a Californian brewery that also brews its beers in Belgian.
It was again very nice.
Thea was also happy, as Grumpy Bum wasn’t around.
We then went in search of somewhere for dinner and ended up at Monumental Seafood, a restaurant in Praça Marquês de Pombal, the town square.
The boss was another Grumpy Bum.
I guess this time in August is rather stressful for anyone in hospitality.
The Grand Guadiana Hotel, Vila Real de Santo António PT
Friday August 16, 2024.
Villa Real Santo António to Beja, Portugal.
After breakfast, again at the hotel, we got on the road to Beja.
The car was starting to get low on fuel so I went looking for a petrol station.
There was one on the way out of Vila Real de Santo António but it didn’t display any prices.
While we were on the road there were no petrol stations to be seen.
It was only when we got lost, in a tiny village, that I saw a sign. We followed it and sure enough it was there.
It only had two pumps and was a pay as you go, self service.
We just put enough fuel in the tank to get it above half full and were on our way again.
I don’t think I sighted another petrol station until we were nearly into Beja.
Getting to our accommodation, the Pousada de Säo Francisco, was easy and it had parking.
I even got a spot in the shade, which was great at it was now 37°C.
I don’t think the car will move for the next few days.
We were too early to check In so went and had a snack by the pool. Then in the evening, once it was cooler, we had a wander around the local area.
The Pousadas seem to go by at least two names.
The one that the hotel chain, who runs them, calls them and the name of the convent in which they are housed.
This one is called Hotel Pousada Convento Beja, while its historical name is Pousada de Säo Francisco. Which means that it is a hotel located in the old Convent of San Francisco, a restored 13th Century Franciscan Convent, in the centre of Beja.
That night dinner was at the hotel restaurant.
It wasn’t too bad but the head waiter was constantly trying to up-sell everything, a bit like the car rental companies.
Jorge Vieira Museum, Beja Castel PT
Saturday August 17, 2024.
Beja, Portugal.
It was a latish start to the day. Our breakfast wasn’t until after 9:00.
However that seemed to be the trend, as most people didn’t appear until after we arrived.
As part of our breakfast, we both had a Portuguese Tart.
Well, we are in Portugal after all.
Breakfast was included, as it is with all the Pousadas.
I then did a bit of housekeeping (washing) before we ventured out.
At Arroz Doce we had a great coffee.
Since our trip in 2022, we have always found that Portuguese coffee is consistently amongst the best in Europe.
As with the area of Granada where we last stayed, Vila Real de Santo António, in Beja, is not a big holiday resort. It caters for the locals not tourists.
Many of the cafes, restaurants and even some of the sights are closed for the Summer break.
We are here for three nights, so it’s going to be interesting to find a dinner spot tonight.
Another interesting thing about Beja, is that most places won’t accept payment by card, they only want cash.
The temperature was already 35°C and it was only 10:00.
It was a slow walk through the streets of Beja, looking for some of the sites we had highlighted to see.
So many of them were shut.
We got to Beja Castle around midday and found that it was shutting at 12:30hrs.
So was the the Museum Jorge Vieira, which is a contemporary art gallery, dedicated to the named artist.
As everything was now shut we went and had an early lunch.
Cantingo de Castelo, as the name suggests, was just opposite the castle, so we had a snack and a beer there.
Yes, even Thea had an ale.
A cold beer, on a hot day, is always very refreshing.
The location was also very pleasant, under the shadows of a large tree and beneath the castle walls.
Portugal has a rather large African community. This has been evident in the wait staff at so many places we have visited.
In Praça da Repuúlica or Republic Square, there is a very prominent Migrant Support Centre.
After lunch we returned to the castle grounds and then visited the Museum Jorge Vieira.
Jorge Vieira (1922-1998) was a Portugese Surrealist sculptor and considered one of the best during the 1950’s.
Between 1954 and 1956 he attended the Slade School of Fine Arts in London. There, both Henry Moore and Reg Butler were his teachers.
It was an amazingly small gallery with, what I’m guessing, is a very tiny example of his work.
However it was free.
The temperature in Baja was now 38°C, so we returned to the coolness of our hotel room.
Siesta time again.
When we went out to find some dinner the temperature was still 36°C.
I think we will be eating inside tonight.
Dinner was at a local restaurant in the middle of town.
It was quite good but didn’t have half of the things advertised on the menu.
When we asked for the bill we found that we could pay by card.
Most places, apart from our Pousada, only took cash.
The meal was only €40 (A$65) so very reasonable.
Red carnations are painted everywhere in Beja, remembering the end of fascism in Portugal.
Sunday August 18, 2024.
Beja, Portugal.
The temperature was only 23°C at breakfast time but was forecast to get up to 35°C.
I think we will do our exploring in the morning.
We went looking for a coffee first but found that the cafe we went to yesterday, Arroz Doce, was closed.
It is Sunday after all, so it was then over the street to Luiz da Rocha.
Next was the Visigothic Museum.
And, again, it was free entry.
This museum is set up in the Igreja de Santo Amaro Church, one of the oldest, still standing, buildings in Portugal. Some parts of the church date back to the 6th Century when it was a Visigoth temple.
Next was Santa Casa de Misericórdia de Beja or The Great Hospital of Our Lady of Piety, which was established in 1490.
Free entry again.
This was becoming a rather inexpensive day.
All around Beja is street art depicting red Carnations.
We wondered what they signified. Then we came across one with the words: ‘Beja Cidade Anti Fascista’ next to the Carnation.
The Carnation Revolution was a coup by military officers to overthrow the the authoritarian Estado Novo Government on April 25th. 1974.
The Carnation Revolution got its name from the fact that almost no shots were fired, and also from restaurant worker, Celeste Caeiro, who offered carnations to soldiers, when the population took to the streets to celebrate the end of the dictatorship.
The temperature was rising so we slowly walked back to the Pousada and had some lunch.
It was now 34°C, so we sought some shade under a leafy pergola.
Then it was back to our room while it was hot.
We had booked the hotel restaurant for dinner, as nothing seemed to be open on a Sunday.
Monday August 19, 2024.
Beja to Vila Viçosa, Portugal.
After breakfast we returned to Arroz Doce for coffee.
We were on the move again today to another Pousada. This one was in Vila Viçosa and only about one and a half hours away.
Thea wanted to buy buttons for the top she was knitting for Hayden and Andrea’s new baby.
Finding buttons in Portugal could be an interesting exercise.
The logical starting point was the Beja Retail Park, that was just out of town.
No buttons there.
We stopped for a bit of lunch, about 30 minutes from Vila Viçosa and there, next to a cafe, was a Chinese Two Dollar shop.
Sure enough, they had buttons.
We reached our Pousada right on 3pm, so were able to check in.
The Pousadas, like the Paradors, are all very similar.
Once you’ve been in one, you know your way around the next one.
It was again 37°C, so we decided to enjoy the cool of our room for a while.
We were staying in the Pousada Convento de Vila Viçosa, also named as Pousada D. João IV.
The Pousadas do seem to go by a few names.
The convent is now over 500 years old, being established in 1514.
It was a very rich convent, with many of the nuns coming from Portuguese Nobility.
Some of these nuns had private apartments and even brought along their maids.
It was turned into a Pousada in 1997.
At 7pm it was still 34°C but there was a cool breeze.
We had booked dinner at the Pousada restaurant, as we didn’t have time, or the inclination, to go in search of anywhere in town – especially in the heat.
That can wait until tomorrow.
Dinner at the Pousada was great, even though getting a good beer was difficult.
They don’t seem to have that right yet.
I had Black Pork with Potatoes and Sausage. This was grilled pork ribs, with the bone removed. That was accompanied by a slice of sausage, which was sandwiched between two slices of potato and then deep fried.
It may sound weird but it was great.
It all sat on a bed of Spinach.
It was one of the best meals I have had in a few days.
Thea had Lamb Chops with Mash – well Thea does love her Mash.
Next to us was an interesting couple with their 7 year old daughter.
She was one of the brightest kids I’ve ever met.
The mom was Polish, the stepfather Egyptian and the young girl spoke flawless English.
They lived in Lisbon.
She could name dates from history and animals from around the world, including Australia.
Statue of Duke João IV (1840) outside the Ducal Palace, Vila Viçosa, PT
Tuesday August 20, 2024.
Vila Viçosa, Portugal.
It was forecast to be a high of 38°C again today, so we decided to do our touring in the morning.
At breakfast it was only 24°C.
And, as expected, the complimentary breakfast was a repeat of the one we had at the Pousada in Beja.
Marble is everywhere in this hotel and there’s a reason.
Vila Viçosa is famous for its marble with more than 150 quarries in the area. So much so that you can actually take a tour of some of the quarries.
It’s called ‘Industrial Tourism’.
At 12:30pm the temperature was up to 32°C, real feel 36°C.
Time to find some shade.
We had a snack at A Fiborna, a small cafe near the castle and next to Craft BBS, a craft beer bar with a good line up of draught beer on tap.
We will definitely return there this evening for a pre dinner beverage.
We went looking for postcards to send to the grandkids, but there weren’t any.
This really isn’t a big tourist destination, so hence the lack of postcards or souvenirs.
In the middle of the afternoon we went to visit the Ducal Palace of Vila Viçosa.
When we arrived we were told that you could only see it as part of a group tour, the tour was only in Portuguese and no photos were allowed.
It was a very one dimensional visit, with nothing to recall it at the end.
We did wonder what the message was to the Portuguese speaking audience.
It was however, a magnificent palace, lavishly decorated and, obviously paid homage to the Portuguese Royal Family.
The palace was the home of the House of Braganza (1640–1910).
They were the last in line before their overthrow.
The Portuguese Monarchs ruled from 1139 until the creation of the Portuguese republic in 1910.
After our less than inspiring visit to the palace we returned to our Pousada, which was just next door.
It was still 37°C outside, so we would wait a bit before venturing out again.
At round 7pm we headed down to try Craft BBS.
It wasn’t just a craft beer bar, with 10 beers on tap, but also a craft gin bar with about 8 gins on tap.
Thea was very happy.
I had a Libata IPA Weissbeer, which was unfiltered and an interesting brew.
Thea had a Cicerone Classico.
Just around the corner was O Paco Duco Vila Vicosa, a restaurant that served big portions of ok food.
As in Spain, people don’t eat their evening meal until late and people were still arriving at 10:00pm.
Craft BBS (craft beer and gin), Vila Viçosa, PT
Wednesday August 21, 2024.
Vila Viçosa, Portugal to Zafra, Spain.
After another hotel breakfast we returned to Cafe A Fiborna, for our morning coffee.
Again payment was cash only but who could complain when our two, Double Espressos were only €1.80 (A$3).
And again they were great.
As we drove out of town Thea was still hunting for post cards, so we stopped in at the Tourist Office.
Even they didn’t have any.
I think Vila Viçosa is suffering.
Their marble industry is the backbone of the community and the desire for the stone may be in decline.
It’s a great area but tourism certainly isn’t on everyone’s mind in Vila Viçosa.
Off back into Spain again today.
With the time change we gained an hour and could check into our Parador at 3:00pm.
it was now 37°C, (Real feel 39°C) so we weren’t going anywhere for a while.
The Parador of Zafra is built within the Castle and Fort of Zafra.
Again there are huge open spaces within the hotel and our room was also spacious.
Being built in an old castle our ceiling was as high as the the room was wide.
We had a snack for lunch, as it was now 4:00pm.
This time change can really throw you.
The Spanish Paradores are a wonderful exercise in branding.
Everything carries their logo.
In the rooms, bed linen, towels, soaps, toilet paper and shampoos.
In the restaurant, crockery, glasses, serviettes, placemats and even condiments.
And in the bar, beermats which naturally were added to my collection.
In the evening when the temperature had cooled, a bit, we ventured out again.
At 6:45pm, the main square, near our Parador, was empty.
We started to just walk around, primarily looking for a place to have dinner.
Come 7:00pm people started to venture out.
All the restaurants were still empty but the bars started to come to life.
I did do a search for Craft Beer, but nothing came up.
Reading reports about the demise of the Craft Beer industry in Australia, and noting how few places serve it in Europe, I’m really concerned.
The big breweries seem to have achieved their goal and destroyed the small ones.
Down near Plaza de España we found a bar, Salon Romero, all they had was variations of Cruzcampo.
Unsurprisingly this is Spain’s number one brewery.
We then had dinner at Meraki, a restaurant in Plaza Grande. The food and outlook was great but the service poor.
You can’t have everything!
Paradore Zafra (1443) Alcazar de Los Duques de Feria, Zafra ES
Thursday August 22, 2024.
Zafra, Spain.
The Paradores don’t offer a complimentary breakfast, like the Pousadas in Portugal, so we went out.
Back in Plaza Grande, Thea had seen La Chamba, a Pasteleria, or pastry shop.
Perfect for a Croissant, Orange Juice and a coffee, our go to breakfast.
We wanted to explore our Parador, which is regarded as one of the main sights of Zafra.
The Ducal Palace of Zafra, the building that our Paradores was set in, was founded in 1443 and became a historical, artistic monument in 1931 and now belongs to the National Treasury.
It was only 34°C and not as hot as yesterday.
We went for some lunch at Salon Romero, where we had a drink last night.
Tapas was the order of the day but we ended up with far too much.
I watched as a table of four young men enjoyed a ‘long lunch’.
Then at around 4:00pm one of them left and, I guessed, returned to work.
It did remind me if my life in advertising in 70’s and 80’s.
Those were the days.
As part of our stay we get a complimentary drink in the hotel bar, so that’s where we will start our evening activities.
Just around the corner was Huerta Honda.
Surprisingly with that name it wasn’t Japanese but very traditional Spanish.
It was a local restaurant, so local in fact that it didn’t have an English menu.
They needed to send us an interpreter.
But it was ‘posh’ and most of the ladies were frocked up and they all carried handbags, just like QEII.
Again, the bar at Huerta Honda only had three draught beers on tap.
Even in your average Aussie country pub you will have twice that number.
It was a good meal and very simple. Also the service was far better than last night.
I won’t be forced to go onto Google and whinge.
Beautifully tiled pharmacy. The tiling was very traditional but done in 1990, Zafra ES
Friday August 23, 2024.
Zafra to Antequera, Spain.
Breakfast was back at Chamba, where we were yesterday.
Today we had Tomato on Toast.
It was very nice and like the Croissants from yesterday, the servings were huge.
We even got the order right for our coffee and had two, very good, Double Espresso’s.
Before departing for Antequera we had final walk around the old area if Zafra, where we came across a beautifully tiled pharmacy.
The tiling was very traditional but done in 1990.
Paradores usual have their check-outs at noon.
This really does give you some morning time to prepare and even do a little sightseeing.
We really did feel like Royalty staying in this ancient palace.
The locations are one of the real benefits to staying in the Paradores.
It was a 3 hour to get to Antequera and we arrived about 3:30pm. It was still hot, about 36°C, with very little breeze to ease the heat.
The town is north of Málaga and west of Granada, so very much inland.
This is the last stop before we return to Granada on Sunday.
The main town centre of Antequera is about a 25 minute walk from our Parador, so we won’t be venturing out just yet.
This Parador certainly breaks with the tradition of the ones we have stayed at recently. To start with, it’s modern and decorated in a very contemporary way.
As we walked into town, later in the afternoon, we were greeted by very loud music and lots of people, all dressed up.
Especially the ladies, who many of them, were wearing traditional flamenco costumes.
It was the Real Feirai or Royal Fair.
Everyone was out and either walking the streets or in the many bars that lined the main streets.
We chose a bar, Casa Pepe Fox.
The Personal face fan is alive and well and living in Spain, they were everywhere and mainly carried by the ladies
The temperature was now to 28°C but the ladies kept their fans active.
Another sign of the big brewery dominance is the lack of beer mats.
They don’t need to spend on marketing because they own the market.
Dinner was great at Casa Fox and it wasn’t expensive, only costing A$75.
I had pork that was very similar to what Hayden makes.
Mine was good, his is definitely better.
Real Feirai or Royal Fair in Antequera ES
Saturday August 24, 2024.
Antequera, Spain.
We walked into town to get breakfast and then explore the area.
This needed to be done before the temperature got too hot.
It was already 26°C and going to get up to 34°C.
Where we had breakfast was called La Canasta and it was at the front of a supermarket.
Even though the temperature was on the rise we walked up the hill to the Alcazaba de Antequera. This is an old Moorish fortress that was built over Roman ruins in the 14th Century. This was to counter the Christian advance that was coming from the north.
At the fort we got a Senior’s concession and an Audio Guide.
This was great, as we could take our time.
There was lots of climbing up and down stairs, exacerbated by the hot stone structure. The story was partly told through the voice of Prince Don Fernando, whose name appeared in the history books as Don Fernando of Antequera.
After clambering over the fort, for nearly two hours, we slowly descended the hill and went looking for a snack lunch.
Cafe Marengo looked ok and there was room inside. It wasn’t air conditioned but the fans kept it cooler.
Croquettes was my choice for the snack. I do love them and who knows when I’ll have them again.
At 3:30pm it was 36°C again, so time to retreat back to the Parador.
We will be eating in the Parador tonight as the city is getting crowded again and we need an early start tomorrow.
The Vuelta a España, the major Spanish bicycle race of the Summer, comes to Granada tomorrow.
It will be ending at the Alhambra and roads around Hayden and Andrea’ place might be closed.
We will now be dropping the car off earlier than planned.
Around the Parador de Antequera ES
Sunday August 25, 2024.
Antequera to Granada, Spain.
As mentioned it was an early start as we wanted to get to Granada before the Vuelta a España came through and disrupted the traffic.
It was just over one hour and most of it was on the motorway.
Enterprise Rentals was understaffed again so we just dropped off the car and returned the keys to the office.
We had travelled over 3,500 km in hire cars over the last three months, driving on both sides of the road.
Then we got a taxi to H&A’s and were there by just after 11:00am.
They had just finished breakfast when we arrived.
Around 5:30pm we looked out of the living room window to see the cyclists from the Vuelta pass.
They were a fair distance down, on the street below, bit to was two hot to climb don the hill.
They passed right by the apartment block that we stayed in, before this last adventure.
They seemed to come by in small groups not one large peloton.
I think they were feeling the 37°C Granada heat.
Coffee at Despiertoo, Granada ES
Monday August 26, 2024.
Granada, Spain.
Our task over the next two days was to look after Brianna.
Hayden and Andrea were back at work, so we needed to keep her out of their hair.
We took the number 9 bus into Granada and this in itself was an adventure for Brianna.
It was a downhill walk to get to the bus stop, which was good as the temperature was rising.
After coffee at Despiertoo, one of Hayden’s favourites, we went to Plaza de los Lobos, or Wolf Park.
Judging by the size of some of the dogs wandering around, I’m not surprised by the name.
We then asked Brianna what she would like to do next.
“Ice cream please” was the answer.
Heladería Dolcemasco, was only a few minutes away so we headed there.
It was just next to Trinity Square or Plaza de la Trinidad, so we went there to eat the ice cream in the shade.
It was now getting hotter and we took the 35 bus back up the hill, above H&A’s, which meant that we had only had to walk down.
You certainly don’t want to be walking uphill in these temperatures.
Feeding time for the lemurs at the BioDoma, Parques de las Ciencias (Science Park), Granada ES
Tuesday August 27, 2024.
Granada, Spain.
Today we took Brianna to the Granada Science Park, which is a member of the European Network of Science Centres.
It’s a large area, covering over 70,000 square metres and is divided into different scientific disciplines.
She seemed to enjoy herself but was overcome when we came across the Bio Domo, a section devoted to live animals, with a variety of different species.
There were fish, reptiles, birds and mammals. And much, to Brianna’s delight, a group of Ring Tailed Lemurs.
She has one at home called Pepe but had never seen a live one.
Pepe has been around for a long time and was originally given to Hayden in 2007.
He donated to a ‘Save the Lemur’ fund and then got Pepe in return for his contribution.
It was his travel companion on his many adventures.
After the park we returned to H&A’s and started to prepare ourselves for the flight home tomorrow.
It was going to be a long day.
Wednesday August 28, 2024.
Granada, Spain to Melbourne, Australia via Barcelona and Doha.
We had an early start to the trip home.
Up at 6:30am, Taxi to the airport at 7:30am.
“It’s been an absolute pleasure.”
This phrase, is spoken by the very English announcer on the Vueling flights we have taken on this trip.
It will be a lasting memory of this time in Europe.
As we flew into Barcelona, we figured it might be the last time we would hear it for a while.
There was a 5.5 hour layover in Barcelona, before we boarded our flight to Doha.
Plenty of time to check in and have some lunch.
It was then just over 6 hours to Doha.
Another layover in Doha, this one 3.5 hours.
Then it was the long flight back to Melbourne, 12.5 hours.
The schedule on the Qatar flight was a bit haphazard, as there were no real meal breaks and they seemed to want to keep us in the dark for most of the flight – literally, as the blinds had to remain closed.
Admittedly we were flying to the east and into the sun. And we had left Doha at 3:00am.
However there was no opportunity to get our body into the correct circadian rhythm.
They didn’t regulate the eating and sleeping times to allow us to settle into a Melbourne time zone. We will have to do that on home territory.
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